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Elevation: 7,250 ft 2,210 m
GPS: 39.9659, -105.2891
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 24,691 total · 36/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Dec 31, 1969
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Fiddle Head is on the north side of Fern Canyon, east of Pellaea and Onoclea. This rock holds a fine east face route, and a couple steeper and harder routes on its west face. Fern Canyon is heavily affected by bird closures.

Getting There Suggest change

From the Mesa Trail, hike into Fern Canyon and past the Goose Eggs which loom above the trail to the north. Fiddle Head is the southernmost rock in the next stratum of rock to the west, but it can be difficult to pick out because the southern end of it is broken and overgrown. To access the west face routes, continue as for Pellaea and Onoclea. To access the east face, bushwack north off the trail well before reaching the prominent Superfresh boulder, and weave through fallen logs and boulders. The East Face route begins just to the right of a prominent left facing dihedral.

19 Total Climbs

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Location: Fiddlehead Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Fiddlehead

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 27
East Face/Fiddle Head
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
Northwest Face
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 9
Irish Spring
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 20
A Shadow Sickness
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 17
Leprechaun Promenade
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
 5
Fernal Crescent
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
Castles Made of Sand
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 48
Chains of Love
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 10
Heart of Stone
Sport 2 pitches
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 6
Infernal
Sport
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 5
Spider Candy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Face/Fiddle Head
 27
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Northwest Face
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Irish Spring
 9
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Sport
A Shadow Sickness
 20
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Leprechaun Promenade
 17
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Sport, TR
Lucky Charms aka Rip This J…
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Fernal Crescent
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
Castles Made of Sand
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Chains of Love
 48
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Heart of Stone
 10
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
Infernal
 6
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Spider Candy
 5
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Fiddlehead »

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