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Fiddlehead Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Fiddlehead

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Shadow Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Castles Made of Sand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Chains of Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	East Face/Fiddle Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Fertile Crescent. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Irish Spring T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Northwest Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	Sol Asylum T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Stemadilemma T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Surfing Samarsa T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
	Unknown Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

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Elevation:	7,250 ft
GPS:	39.9659, -105.2891 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	23,559 total · 36/month
Shared By:	Mike Sofranko on Dec 31, 1969
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:

flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…

Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.

Description

Fiddle Head is on the north side of Fern Canyon, east of Pellaea and Onoclea. This rock holds a fine east face route, and a couple steeper and harder routes on its west face. Fern Canyon is heavily affected by bird closures.

Getting There

From the Mesa Trail, hike into Fern Canyon and past the Goose Eggs which loom above the trail to the north. Fiddle Head is the southernmost rock in the next stratum of rock to the west, but it can be difficult to pick out because the southern end of it is broken and overgrown. To access the west face routes, continue as for Pellaea and Onoclea. To access the east face, bushwack north off the trail well before reaching the prominent Superfresh boulder, and weave through fallen logs and boulders. The East Face route begins just to the right of a prominent left facing dihedral.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fiddlehead

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 23 ● East Face/Fiddle Head Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 9 ● Irish Spring Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 19 ● A Shadow Sickness Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R 17 ● Leprechaun Promenade Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 13 ● Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 3 ● Stemadilemma Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 11 ● Castles Made of Sand Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 35 ● Chains of Love Trad, Sport 2 pitches