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Fiddlehead

Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > Fern Canyon
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Fiddle Head is on the north side of Fern Canyon, east of Pellaea and Onoclea. This rock holds a fine east face route, and a couple steeper and harder routes on its west face. Fern Canyon is heavily affected by bird closures.

Getting There

From the Mesa Trail, hike into Fern Canyon and past the Goose Eggs which loom above the trail to the north. Fiddle Head is the southernmost rock in the next stratum of rock to the west, but it can be difficult to pick out because the southern end of it is broken and overgrown. To access the west face routes, continue as for Pellaea and Onoclea. To access the east face, bushwack north off the trail well before reaching the prominent Superfresh boulder, and weave through fallen logs and boulders. The East Face route begins just to the right of a prominent left facing dihedral.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
 1
Surfing Samarsa
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 16
Leprechaun Promenade
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 8
Irish Spring
Trad, Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 1
Unknown Dihedral
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 24
Chains of Love
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Stemadilemma
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
A Shadow Sickness
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Castles Made of Sand
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
 3
Fertile Crescent.
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 1
Men Only
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 16
East Face/Fiddle Head
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Surfing Samarsa
 1
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad
Leprechaun Promenade
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Sport, TR
Lucky Charms aka Rip This J…
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Irish Spring
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Sport
Unknown Dihedral
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Chains of Love
 24
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Stemadilemma
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
A Shadow Sickness
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Castles Made of Sand
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Fertile Crescent.
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
Men Only
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad
East Face/Fiddle Head
 16
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

From The Slab, 4/11/02.
[Hide Photo] From The Slab, 4/11/02.
Climbers Kat and Ryan on Lepracaun Promenade (10b), on the summit of the Fiddle Head in Fern Canyon.
[Hide Photo] Climbers Kat and Ryan on Lepracaun Promenade (10b), on the summit of the Fiddle Head in Fern Canyon.