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Routes in Fiddlehead
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A Shadow Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Castles Made of Sand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chains of Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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East Face/Fiddle Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Fertile Crescent. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Irish Spring T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Northwest Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sol Asylum T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Stemadilemma T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Surfing Samarsa T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Unknown Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Wall of Eyes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Tim Coats and Bret Ruckman, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 775 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Roth on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This striking dihedral would be classic except for a few reasons:
1. Poison ivy bush at the base.
2. Too short.
3. Filthy and unprotected start.
4. Big bushes in your face while trying to reach the dihedral.
5. The pin wiggles.
6. You can get your rope stuck in the crack when exiting onto the slab.
7. You will smell like bird urine when finished.
8. And last but not least: it's a massive sandbag!!!
You can back up the pin with some small brass. A couple of really hard stemming moves lead to a short hand crack (#1 or #2 Camalot or both). These moves are the crux, but it stays tough until you get to the lip. After the #2, a couple of nuts and a #0.5 at the lip will get you safely up. There are two big bomber nuts for an anchor, but the cord is pretty crusty.
1. Poison ivy bush at the base.
2. Too short.
3. Filthy and unprotected start.
4. Big bushes in your face while trying to reach the dihedral.
5. The pin wiggles.
6. You can get your rope stuck in the crack when exiting onto the slab.
7. You will smell like bird urine when finished.
8. And last but not least: it's a massive sandbag!!!
You can back up the pin with some small brass. A couple of really hard stemming moves lead to a short hand crack (#1 or #2 Camalot or both). These moves are the crux, but it stays tough until you get to the lip. After the #2, a couple of nuts and a #0.5 at the lip will get you safely up. There are two big bomber nuts for an anchor, but the cord is pretty crusty.
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