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Routes in Fiddlehead

A Shadow Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castles Made of Sand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chains of Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Face/Fiddle Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fertile Crescent. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Irish Spring T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stemadilemma T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Surfing Samarsa T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Unknown Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Tim Coats and Bret Ruckman, 1989
Page Views: 86 total · 8/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This striking dihedral would be classic except for a few reasons:

1. Poison ivy bush at the base.
2. Too short.
3. Filthy and unprotected start.
4. Big bushes in your face while trying to reach the dihedral.
5. The pin wiggles.
6. You can get your rope stuck in the crack when exiting onto the slab.
7. You will smell like bird urine when finished.
8. And last but not least: it's a massive sandbag!!!

You can back up the pin with some small brass. A couple of really hard stemming moves lead to a short hand crack (#1 or #2 Camalot or both). These moves are the crux, but it stays tough until you get to the lip. After the #2, a couple of nuts and a #0.5 at the lip will get you safely up. There are two big bomber nuts for an anchor, but the cord is pretty crusty.

Location

This is just uphill from A Shadow Sickness. Lower from 2 nuts at the top.

Protection

A few cams and some nuts (including RPs). Bring a new cord for the anchor.

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