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Routes in Fiddlehead

A Shadow Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castles Made of Sand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chains of Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Face/Fiddle Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fertile Crescent. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Irish Spring T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stemadilemma T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Surfing Samarsa T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Unknown Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Griffith / Guerin '81
Page Views: 1,115 total · 6/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jan 20, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is located directly on the standard rappel line of the west side of Fiddlehead summit. It was probably climbed as a top rope problem long before bolts appeared.

This is a beautiful face with nice edges, but there is ground fall potential on clipping all three of the bolts. A few small RPs after the 2nd bolt might keep you off the ground. (3 stars as a TR, 2 stars as a sport climb.)

Descent: Rap 60 feet off of slings.

Protection

3 draws and maybe some RPs.

Per Neil Chelton: to make it not R-rated, bring small cams and nuts.
A bomber purple Camalot can be placed between the 1st and 2nd bolt in a 1" seam that angles up and right...the further right you place the piece, the higher it will be. A yellow Alien can be placed between the 2nd and 3rd bolt in an obvious pocket. Both gear placements make the climb very safe. The only real danger is making the first clip.... Jan 12, 2004
Matt Samet and I replaced all three bolts on this route today 9/1/08 with beefy 1/2" ARI stainless. Please support the ARI if you don't already. Also, this route would benefit from a real bolted anchor up top rather than the shotty slung block on the ledge. My two cents anyway. Sep 1, 2008
This route has a second pitch that ascends the roof and face above the initial top-out ledge. clamber up beneath a big flake and roof, place some gear, and yard over - 9+/10a, very fun and very well-protected. The face above has a good bit of lichen, but the climbing is very easy, probably 5.8 on chicken heads. There is currently a three-sling anchor near the top of this second pitch that allows for a ~33m rappel back to the base of the wall. If you're spending some time on this little wall, the second pitch is well worth doing. Sep 25, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
Really fun face climbing! There is definitely gear between the bolts, and it is not "R" at all. Oct 3, 2009
neil chelton
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
neil chelton   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
It's 'R' rated if you only take 3 quick-draws up there. However, theres at least 2 good gear placements between each bolt and after the last bolt. Bring small cams and nuts. Oct 30, 2010

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