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Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3 from 13
votes
Routes in Fiddlehead
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A Shadow Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Castles Made of Sand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chains of Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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East Face/Fiddle Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Fertile Crescent. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Irish Spring T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Northwest Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sol Asylum T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Stemadilemma T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Surfing Samarsa T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Unknown Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Wall of Eyes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Griffith/Guerin, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 2,715 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Shainman on Oct 27, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Ever see the Wild Country ad in late '80s Rock and Ice with Charlie Fowler climbing a cool looking face somewhere in the Flatirons? This is that route, and I had always wanted to do it since I first saw the pic...I feel that this is one of the best Flatirons routes of its grade.
Short but sweet! Climb up to the bolt (added after 1st ascent) and move up and left to these jigsaw flakes and place a wire or two. Stand up and place another wire in a sort of dubious slot out left. Make crux moves diagonally out right to another angling crack, meander your way up and right to the ledge and belay.
Rap off the slings threaded through the jug handle or climb the "2nd pitch" of dirty, lichenous rock.
Short but sweet! Climb up to the bolt (added after 1st ascent) and move up and left to these jigsaw flakes and place a wire or two. Stand up and place another wire in a sort of dubious slot out left. Make crux moves diagonally out right to another angling crack, meander your way up and right to the ledge and belay.
Rap off the slings threaded through the jug handle or climb the "2nd pitch" of dirty, lichenous rock.
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