Ever see the Wild Country ad in late '80s Rock and Ice with Charlie Fowler climbing a cool looking face somewhere in the Flatirons? This is that route, and I had always wanted to do it since I first saw the pic...I feel that this is one of the best Flatirons routes of its grade.
Short but sweet! Climb up to the bolt (added after 1st ascent) and move up and left to these jigsaw flakes and place a wire or two. Stand up and place another wire in a sort of dubious slot out left. Make crux moves diagonally out right to another angling crack, meander your way up and right to the ledge and belay.
Rap off the slings threaded through the jug handle or climb the "2nd pitch" of dirty, lichenous rock.
[Hide Photo] Tony Bubb leads up the deceptively steep and thin 'Lucky Charms (5.10)' on the Fiddle Head in Fern Canyon, of the Flatirons. Photo by Chris Parks, 2004.
[Hide Comment] Matt Samet and I replaced the single button-head bolt down low today with a much beefier ASCA stainless bolt. Please support the ASCA if you don't already.
Kudos to Matt who had to finish drilling the last inch by hand when the battery went dead in the drill, all while racing the oncoming darkness.
Also, I think this route would benefit from a bolted anchor to be shared with Leprechaun instead of the slung boulder on the ledge. Just my two cents on the matter.
Sep 1, 2008
[Hide Comment] This is a really fun climb. Well worth getting on if you're a confident face climber at the grade. I felt the crux moves were pretty thin, and, in my case, protected only by a #3 BD brass that I got about 12 or 13 feet above at one point. Very exciting.
Sep 25, 2009
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Broomfield, CO
Kudos to Matt who had to finish drilling the last inch by hand when the battery went dead in the drill, all while racing the oncoming darkness.
Also, I think this route would benefit from a bolted anchor to be shared with Leprechaun instead of the slung boulder on the ledge. Just my two cents on the matter. Sep 1, 2008