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Routes in Fiddlehead

A Shadow Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castles Made of Sand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chains of Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Face/Fiddle Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fertile Crescent. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Irish Spring T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stemadilemma T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Surfing Samarsa T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Unknown Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: J. Achey, K. Lugbill, 1980
Page Views: 80 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 13, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a climb of questionable origin that lost 50% of its good holds on the last attempted ascent. A chipmunk could have pulled some of these off.

The books suggest that the route lies 50 feet down the hill from the obvious corner of Fertile Crescent, atop a large boulder. This place is pretty clear. The book suggests keeping to the left crack alone, but this is something I take issue with, as almost everything I touched broke or outright fell off the wall. After a few attempts at climbing the choss and seeing the fall, despite protection, would land me on the boulder-spike just below, I decided to include the crack on the right. The difficulty was still ~10b.

This climb steps onto an overhang at a knobby, flaky crack. I broke off the first foothold the first time I stepped up. I cracked off the flake I was pinching the second time I stepped up. The third time I went up I broke off the edge of a crack with my jam. The gear was grinding out flakes when I attempted to set it.

I have *NO IDEA* how this could get a star.

Eventually I pulled up and onto the rock and decided to head right into the other crack. I bumped the face with my left elbow when moving, and as if to punctuate my decision, a chunk of choss fell off of the wall where my elbow had touched.

I finished on the crack on the right. Coming down, I cleaned the crack on the left. In fact, I cleaned most of the holds off of it. Maybe the next guy up will find it enjoyable... or at least have a shot at survival.

Location

Downhill 50 from Fertile Crescent, there is a steep overhang at the base of the wall. In one place, a large boulder looms just below where a crack through this overhang converts to a shallow, overhanging, right-facing corner. Just right of this corner is a second crack in darker rock. Climb up these crack systems (buyer beware) and to a tree on a ledge above.

Protection

Bring protection from small-to-medium nuts and cams and up to 3". If the rock were good, the pro would be too... but it isn't. The webbing around the tree up top is a record breaker in terms of bad quality. So old it has rock-matching lichen on it. Do not use it! (Replace or rap off of the tree directly.)

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