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Routes in Fiddlehead

A Shadow Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castles Made of Sand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chains of Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Face/Fiddle Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fertile Crescent. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Irish Spring T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stemadilemma T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Surfing Samarsa T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Unknown Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: R. Rossiter, solo, 1989
Page Views: 403 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 26, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Great climbing on great rock- but it needs a good brushing to remove lichen. If cleaned, it would be an easier route than the others, but on par for overall quality.

Head over to the left end of the West-facing top cap of the Fiddlehead. Set up a belay there and climb.

Go up off the top of a boulder leaning on the wall, and up 20' to the ledge. Head down and right to pull onto the second half of the climb, and head up and left of a 8" round hole in the wall (coming from below and right of it). Go up under a flake/small roof to turn if tothe left after placing 2.5-3" gear and climb into the into a left-facing corner, heading up and left onto the face (more gear) and then right near the top.

Head right on the ridge 20' or so to reach the belay/rap anchors. A 60m rope will get you back to a particular ledge as for the start of the other 3 climbs if you stay to climber's left on rap.

Location

This climb is the furthest line left on the wall with Lucky Charms, Irish Spring, and Leprachuan Promenade.

Protection

The pro is spotty in places- not so much that it can not be safely protected, but it may require some creativity. Cams in horizontals and pockets make up at least 1/2 of the opportunities.

Photos

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