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Routes in Fiddlehead

A Shadow Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castles Made of Sand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chains of Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Face/Fiddle Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fertile Crescent. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Irish Spring T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stemadilemma T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Surfing Samarsa T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Unknown Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Skip Guerin, 1981
Page Views: 871 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start down and right of the Huge Boulder against the N/NW face of the Fiddlehead. Ascend up to & past the first bolt of Lucky Charms, clipping it for protection on the way to the arete to the right (West).

Access the arete and plunk in gear- climbing upward to the crux shortly after a middle-sized cam (1-1.5"?) and then climb the arete to a good ledge. Move left & rap off, or continue up on the second pitch of Leprechaun Promenade (10c) to the summit and a 100+ foot rap. Take a 70m rope or do it in 2 raps.

Location

This climb ascends the right hand edge of the North Face of the Fiddlehead after accessing it from the left past a single bolt as for Lucky Charms.

Protection

One bolt on Lucky Charms, then gear to 2" in occasional placements up the arete. Flexible SLCDs are a good idea for the horizontals.
Matt Samet and I replaced the single button-head bolt down low on Rip This Joint which is used for this route with a much beefier ASCA stainless bolt. Please support the ASCA if you don't already. Sep 1, 2008