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Routes in Fiddlehead
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A Shadow Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Castles Made of Sand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chains of Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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East Face/Fiddle Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Fertile Crescent. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Irish Spring T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Northwest Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sol Asylum T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Stemadilemma T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Surfing Samarsa T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Unknown Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Wall of Eyes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Skip Guerin, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 1,706 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 29, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Start down and right of the Huge Boulder against the N/NW face of the Fiddlehead. Ascend up to & past the first bolt of Lucky Charms, clipping it for protection on the way to the arete to the right (West).
Access the arete and plunk in gear- climbing upward to the crux shortly after a middle-sized cam (1-1.5"?) and then climb the arete to a good ledge. Move left & rap off, or continue up on the second pitch of Leprechaun Promenade (10c) to the summit and a 100+ foot rap. Take a 70m rope or do it in 2 raps.
Access the arete and plunk in gear- climbing upward to the crux shortly after a middle-sized cam (1-1.5"?) and then climb the arete to a good ledge. Move left & rap off, or continue up on the second pitch of Leprechaun Promenade (10c) to the summit and a 100+ foot rap. Take a 70m rope or do it in 2 raps.
Location
This climb ascends the right hand edge of the North Face of the Fiddlehead after accessing it from the left past a single bolt as for Lucky Charms.
Protection
One bolt on Lucky Charms, then gear to 2" in occasional placements up the arete. Flexible SLCDs are a good idea for the horizontals.
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