Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Skip Guerin, 1981
Page Views: 947 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start down and right of the Huge Boulder against the N/NW face of the Fiddlehead. Ascend up to & past the first bolt of Lucky Charms, clipping it for protection on the way to the arete to the right (West).

Access the arete and plunk in gear- climbing upward to the crux shortly after a middle-sized cam (1-1.5"?) and then climb the arete to a good ledge. Move left & rap off, or continue up on the second pitch of Leprechaun Promenade (10c) to the summit and a 100+ foot rap. Take a 70m rope or do it in 2 raps.

Location

This climb ascends the right hand edge of the North Face of the Fiddlehead after accessing it from the left past a single bolt as for Lucky Charms.

Protection

One bolt on Lucky Charms, then gear to 2" in occasional placements up the arete. Flexible SLCDs are a good idea for the horizontals.

Photos

Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
Matt Samet and I replaced the single button-head bolt down low on Rip This Joint which is used for this route with a much beefier ASCA stainless bolt. Please support the ASCA if you don't already. Sep 1, 2008