Chains of Love
Avg: 3.9 from 26 votes
Routes in Fiddlehead
|A Shadow Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Castles Made of Sand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Chains of Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|East Face/Fiddle Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Fertile Crescent. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Irish Spring T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Stemadilemma T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Surfing Samarsa T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Unknown Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Colin Lantz, et al.|
|Page Views:||7,268 total, 37/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Oct 29, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is the only route I know of that has made the cover of Time Magazine. Check out a back issue from about two or three summers ago to see Beth Wald's vintage shot of Colin Lantz busting a sick dead hang off the stonker huecos on the crux pitch whilst clad in radical 80's lycra!
Chains, while it does have an intermediate belay, can be done in one pitch with 70-meter rope. It climbs out the enormous, pocketed roof on the west side of Fiddlehead, about 70 yards downhill and south from Rip This Joint, Irish Spring, etc.
Pitch one climbs past a bolt below twin cracks in a right-facing corner zone. Above the bolt, you can move past two pins (5.9 or so -- use long slings to avoid rope drag if you're doing this in one pitch) and some smaller/hand-size cams in the right crack to reach another bolt, then a rightward traverse across the belay ledge. (Alternately, climb the left and wider of the two cracks -- bring up to #4 Camalot). You'll see a two-bolt and chain anchor out right, if you're pitching this out.
Pitch two climbs the stunning overhang above via 7 bolts, to double-bolt (and chain) anchors up and right over the lip. If you're doing this as a single pitch from the ground, I don't think you'd come over and clip this belay, as the drag would be awful.
This is one of the funnest, most gymnastic overhangs in the Flatirons and is a "must-do" for the grade.
If you do this route with a 60m and your second wants to follow it, you can lead it all in one pitch from the ground, tramming in while lowering to reach the belay atop pitch one (have him tie a knot in the rope end, regardless!). Belay your second up from here while he cleans the draws. Have him thread and lower back to you (staying trammed in), and then rap once to the ground. Bizzlin...