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Routes in Fiddlehead
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A Shadow Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Castles Made of Sand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chains of Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Doors of Stone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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East Face/Fiddle Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Fernal Crescent T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Heart of Stone S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Infernal S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Irish Spring T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Northwest Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sol Asylum T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Spider Candy S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Stemadilemma T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stoned Love S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Surfing Samarsa T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Unknown Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Wall of Eyes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9659, -105.2891 |
| FA: | Unknown (FRA: Chris Weidner, solo; August 3, 2019) |
| Page Views: | 1,005 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Weidner on Aug 3, 2019 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This route is fun, is on great rock, and is the easiest way to summit Fiddlehead from the north (to my knowledge). I haven't seen it documented anywhere else, so I thought I'd include it here.
Start as per Surfing in Samsara (5.7; Richard Rossiter, solo, 1989) atop a large boulder resting against the northwest face of Fiddlehead. After the short, steep 5.0 section, walk the slanted ledge rightward past a bolt anchor to a large flake. Climb the flake (exposed) to reach solid jugs over the lip of a small roof. Crank the roof, and follow more jugs up and left to the summit.
Descend with one or two rappels from bolted anchors.
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