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Routes in Fiddlehead

A Shadow Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castles Made of Sand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chains of Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Face/Fiddle Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fertile Crescent. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Irish Spring T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stemadilemma T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Surfing Samarsa T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Unknown Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: E. Doub, E. Guokas, C. Griffith, 1980
Page Views: 552 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 1, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is down low on the East Ridge of the Fern Canyon, below (south) of the Fiddle Head. The rotue is distinguished by a pin and pink & green webbing fixed with a ring, at the transition from the super-steep start and the upper dihedral. The given grade of this route at 5.10, like others in the area, completely fails to account for the moves required to gain the crack system. The crack system is probably 5.10b, but getting to it is 5.11+ and prior to replacing the sling on that pin, downright scarey to protect. The moves may have once been easier, but the feet here have broken (some while I was on it) and that may have increased the difficulty of the route. I came down and tested the remaining holds pretty hard and what remains seems solid now, but anything is possible. I'd give it another star if I was confident of the quality of the remaining rock.

Start off left of the crack system on a rock and start working to the right on a gymnastic and insecure start- you have the option of haing a #2 camalot (2.5" cam) or a good undercling before getting to the fixed sling, Your choice- the moves are hard, insecure, and the fall absolutely nasty. Maybe consider stick-clipping the sling. Clip it short to stay off of the ground as far as possible in the event of a fall. Continue up to the sling, then just right of it on hard moves to gain a position to pull the roof and pull up into the crack. From there the climbing gets good clean and well protected. Climb the corner and thin crack on the right side to the top, where a decent anchor allows a lower off or belay.

If the start is just too hard, you can aid it to gain the crack.

The webbing was just replaced (green= new) and pin inspected (looks OK) one of the old rotton strands of webbing should be cut away. I did not have a knife with me.

Protection

A #2 camalor or #2.5 friend, plus a set of stoppers and maybe a few other cams.

Photos

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