Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft (18 m)|
|FA:||E. Doub, E. Guokas, C. Griffith, 1980|
|Page Views:||925 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Oct 1, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Start off left of the crack system on a rock and start working to the right on a gymnastic and insecure start- you have the option of haing a #2 camalot (2.5" cam) or a good undercling before getting to the fixed sling, Your choice- the moves are hard, insecure, and the fall absolutely nasty. Maybe consider stick-clipping the sling. Clip it short to stay off of the ground as far as possible in the event of a fall. Continue up to the sling, then just right of it on hard moves to gain a position to pull the roof and pull up into the crack. From there the climbing gets good clean and well protected. Climb the corner and thin crack on the right side to the top, where a decent anchor allows a lower off or belay.
If the start is just too hard, you can aid it to gain the crack.
The webbing was just replaced (green= new) and pin inspected (looks OK) one of the old rotton strands of webbing should be cut away. I did not have a knife with me.