Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Jeff Achey and Bill Bradley, 1981
Page Views: 2,210 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Oct 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

7 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

I was tempted to say this would be three stars if it were longer, but it's so action-packed, and unique for the area, that it seems worthy of three stars even though the real climbing is only 40-45 feet. Ruby Slipper is a continuous RP to small-wire crack through a steep slab. Several cruxes, thought-provoking protection and a great line make this a classic, despite an arduous approach. Leading it requires patience and the ability to hang out on small footholds while fiddling in RPs, and there are a couple of loose flakes to worry about. But there is plenty of gear if you work at it, and the climbing is excellent. Be careful of the mounds of loose rock on the belay ledge at the top.

Protection Suggest change

Good pro for the patient, knowledgeable leader.