Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jeff Achey and Bill Bradley, 1981
Page Views: 1,215 total · 6/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Oct 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


I was tempted to say this would be three stars if it were longer, but it's so action-packed, and unique for the area, that it seems worthy of three stars even though the real climbing is only 40-45 feet. Ruby Slipper is a continuous RP to small-wire crack through a steep slab. Several cruxes, thought-provoking protection and a great line make this a classic, despite an arduous approach. Leading it requires patience and the ability to hang out on small footholds while fiddling in RPs, and there are a couple of loose flakes to worry about. But there is plenty of gear if you work at it, and the climbing is excellent. Be careful of the mounds of loose rock on the belay ledge at the top.


Good pro for the patient, knowledgeable leader.


Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
Not a route to max out on. The gear may take some fiddling in, and the flake is fragile in places. The true crux is 2/3 of the way up in thin feet land.
Small strong fingers and a long reach help, the converse would hurt. The grade on this one is very subjective. I've got all three mitigating attributes going for me so it felt easier that 11c, but I can imagine that lacking long arms or having anything other than my pencil-tipped fingers would have increased the difficulty some. Sep 16, 2007
Aeon Aki    
FA Jeff Achey and Bill Hoadley. Bill Bradley was a basketball player. May 1, 2008