Type: Trad, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: J. Achey, C. Chase, 1981
Page Views: 452 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is the second of 3 area climbs rated 5.10c, **, and perhaps the easiest of the 3, but it shares the same rather sharp and feisty character with the others. Tape up!

Start off from the ground clipping the first of several bolts and pulling up onto the wall - the initial crux if you are short. Continue up and right past a few more bolts and then left to a 2-bolt and chain anchor, where you can belay but can better yet can add a long sling and continue on. From there, the route goes onward. Step up and right, clip one last bolt with a long sling, and continue now on gear. At the bulge, sing fists if you have large hands, or improvise if you don't. Head up and left over the bulge and into a rest (good ledge) and then a thin corner that is much more mellow. Head up and over, with the biggest jugs around greeting you to the right side up top. Place a few directionals, then wander back away from the edge to find a gear belay, or scramble out left to the anchors on Violator to belay. Lowering from these with the rope in the 'Shot' corner would be rough on the rope, as there are flakes with sharp edges in between.

A 70m rope gets you down with some to spare, and a 60m might be cutting it a bit close but should work with some caution.

Location Suggest change

This climb starts as a (retro-) bolted offset line below the overhanging arete of Violator. At a 2-bolt anchor, the climb splits off the the right and heads back into the right-facing corner, followed by an overhanging crack, a brief slot, then a vertical section with good holds to the top.

Protection Suggest change

Gear from 0.3"-4" with one of everything. An extra red or green Camalot might be nice to have. Long slings and a 70m rope are a plus.


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