Over The Rainbow
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Nebel Horn Ridge
|"Space Invaders" to "Shot" T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X|
|A Quickie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Death Block Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|False Gods, Real Men T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Grand Theft Auto? T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Jennifer's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Nebel End T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Nebel Via T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c|
|One In The Chamber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Over The Rainbow T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Rads For Rookies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Rainbow Bridge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ruby Slipper T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Scarecrow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Violator S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Type:||Trad, TR, 80 ft|
|FA:||T. Bubb, W. McGehee|
|Page Views:||357 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Aug 5, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionFrom the top of the route Rainbow Bridge, look up at the continued Arete - climb it on the left side, with the crux being getting up onto it until about 10' up at some good jugs. No pro until that point at which time the hardest moves are over, and cams or tricams could be fired into the semi-horizontal cracks. Continue up the arete and reach a pocketed bulge with a few potential cam placements, pull [the] bulge and reach a ledge from which one finishes with the crux of "One In The Chamber" which is well protected 5.8.
To descend, rap from the fixed anchor up top. This should be backed up if frequently used.
ProtectionTR from an anchor on the SW corner of the top of the Nebel Horn, or lead (S/VS) with spotty gear and heavy runouts. The route is VERY runout, but the crux not far off of the ground. More likely an ankle-breaker than a death fall. The top of the route probably has death-fall potential, but is not very difficult. Although I have lead this, I believe it may be best as a TR at present.
For the record, I do consent for it to be bolted someday if bolts are ever permitted. That is bolted only in the runout areas, and NOT near the existing placements. I have no objection and I think it would become a logical extension and quality addition to the already good "Rainbow Bridge" route- perhaps making that a 200' 5.10b pitch. The anchor up top should be backed up if used for a TR.