Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: T. Bubb, W. McGehee
Page Views: 1,008 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 5, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

From the top of the route Rainbow Bridge, look up at the continued Arete - climb it on the left side, with the crux being getting up onto it until about 10' up at some good jugs. No pro until that point at which time the hardest moves are over, and cams or tricams could be fired into the semi-horizontal cracks. Continue up the arete and reach a pocketed bulge with a few potential cam placements, pull [the] bulge and reach a ledge from which one finishes with the crux of "One In The Chamber" which is well protected 5.8.

To descend, rap from the fixed anchor up top. This should be backed up if frequently used.

Protection Suggest change

TR from an anchor on the SW corner of the top of the Nebel Horn, or lead (S/VS) with spotty gear and heavy runouts. The route is VERY runout, but the crux not far off of the ground. More likely an ankle-breaker than a death fall. The top of the route probably has death-fall potential, but is not very difficult. Although I have lead this, I believe it may be best as a TR at present.
For the record, I do consent for it to be bolted someday if bolts are ever permitted. That is bolted only in the runout areas, and NOT near the existing placements. I have no objection and I think it would become a logical extension and quality addition to the already good "Rainbow Bridge" route- perhaps making that a 200' 5.10b pitch. The anchor up top should be backed up if used for a TR.