Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: T Bubb, J Haas, J Wood, 9/07 (?)
Page Views: 476 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 16, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is an interesting route that was better than it looked at first. I believe it has probably seen prior ascents, at least in part as an escape or alternate option to parts of 'Earache My Eye.'

Climb up a mellow corner for perhaps 40 feet to a large, incut ledge, then stand up on a horn of rock and pull over junky-looking, but solid bulge on slopers (crux) to reach jugs and a bomber 2" cam placement. Continue up the second half of the route, a second, left-facing corner past stoppers, cams, locks and jams to reach the top. A good thread up top makes for a good belay point on the right-hand wall.

Descend via a heads-up but mellow scramble off- down to the base of Ruby Slipper, and then below.

This climb perhaps would be better with a fixed tie-off and a ring at the top.

Location

On the Nebel Horn Ridge, this route lies just downhill (south) of Ruby Slipper. There is a pair of shallow, left-facing corners there which extend from ground to summit with a large ledge at mid-height. This route is the left most of them, the right being "Earache My Eye."

Protection

Rack to 2.5" + cordalette for the tie-off belay up top.

Photos

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Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.8+
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.8+
Don't be discouraged by the "unknown" name, this is a very nice route. After the first 15 ft, gear placement is great all the way up. Getting up onto the upper hand crack felt like a second crux to me. Warm afternoon sun and beautiful view from the top. Jan 30, 2011
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
This is listed as "Grand Theft Auto" in the guidebook. Jan 30, 2011