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Routes in Nebel Horn Ridge

"Space Invaders" to "Shot" T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
A Quickie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Death Block Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
False Gods, Real Men T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grand Theft Auto? T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jennifer's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Nebel End T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Nebel Via T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
One In The Chamber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over The Rainbow T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rads For Rookies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainbow Bridge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ruby Slipper T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scarecrow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Violator S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: T. Bubb, W. McGehee
Page Views: 265 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 5, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

On the ledge at the top of the route Rainbow Bridge, walk N/NE perhaps 10 meters, Passing the Routes "One In The Chamber" and "Over The Rainbow", perhaps by 4 meters to reach an left-leaning low angle crack going up the W/NW Facing wall. There is a single small tree about 1/2 way up this. Climb up the crack protecting as you see fit to reach to top of the rock. Near the top attention must be given to rock quality, as protection will be as good as you make it. This may not be the best lead for a [newbie] leader, but CAN be protected just fine with some wisdom/good judgement.

To descend, rap W/NW from the fixed anchor atop the Nebel Horn Summit, then again as for Rainbow Bridge. The webbing is new, but please consider backing this up with additional webbing and a rapid link, as it is presently a single set of webbing and single biner. It will require a total of ~8 meters to reach both threading points.

Protection

A standard light rack with cams to 3.5"

Photos

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William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
 
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
 
I felt this route may have been a tad easier than 5.7, but not by much. I would like to reiterate Tony's suggestion that the rock on the upper portion (starting at the tree and beyond) is not terribly solid. I cleaned what I could remove with my hands and removed stones that were next to the tree, but be careful nonetheless. Just be certain of what you grab. If you're in the area, you likely got there by climbing Rainbow Bridge, so there shouldn't be any problems with difficulty on lead.Hand sized cams are the way to protect this route with optional gear above #3 camalot.

~Wm Aug 9, 2005

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