| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.9662, -105.2906 |
| FA: | Colin Lantz, 5/10/90 |
| Page Views: | 3,223 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Jul 30, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Violator is a long way up Fern Canyon and just right of the classic Ruby Slipper. Technical arete climbing, great positioning, and hard boulder problems define the route. Formerly, you would solo up the first 25 feet of low-angle 5.0 rock or place nut or two to protect this access. Now, per Tristan Bradford, you climb straight up the bolted previously trad pitch (now bolted with 4 bolts) just below the arete to access the arete. It is immediately hard. Steep bouldery moves climb out left past the first two bolts. Barndoor arete moves climb past the third and fourth bolts. An awkward pinch move takes the climbing onto the right side of the arete past the fifth bolt to some final hard deadpoint moves to crimps while you're really flamed. Climb over a bulge and onto the upper lower angle dirty and lichen covered headwall past bolts six and seven per Tristan Bradford.
Enjoy the view down into Boulder and Denver as you clip the anchors.
Protection
Originally, 7 quickdraws and a fixed anchor.
Per Tristan Bradford: 4 bolts on the first pitch + a 2 bolt anchor and 7 bolts and a fixed anchor for the main crux pitch.



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