Type: Sport
FA: Kathy Lantz and Michael Massari, 1989
Page Views: 4,117 total · 15/month
Shared By: Michael Walker on Oct 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

As the name implies, this route is pretty radical - even for rookies!

The climb can be found midway up the Nebel Horn Ridge and is identified by a huge chockstone at the top of a prominent chimney. The faces on both sidest of the chimney sport bolt lines. The right four bolt line is Rads for Rookies.

Begin atop a group of convenient flat rocks on the talus slope at the base of the Nebel Horn Ridge, found after scrambling uphill from the Fern Canyon trail and honing in on the huge chockstone. The actual climb begins from a ledge 40' above the talus gained by stepping off a large rock into a crack that angles up and right to the base of the Chockstone chimney. This initial section can be protected with a #4 in the wide crack on the initial crack and a double length runner around a tree on the left of a short slab. If you plan on climbing both bolt lines of the chimney you may want to set up an anchor in the back of the chimney on the ledge. It is easy enough, however, to just climb Rads straight up to the anchors. The initial moves off the ledge are huge jugs and make clipping the first bolt easy. The climbing above is sporty, challenging and aesthetic up the face past three more bolts. A two bolt anchor with aging slings and carabiners awaits on the summit. Rap back to your pack.

Protection Suggest change

Four QDs, #4, one double length runner, stoppers and small gear for optional anchor and something for the two bolt anchor at the top. The aging slings and rings need replacing.