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Routes in Nebel Horn Ridge

"Space Invaders" to "Shot" T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
A Quickie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Death Block Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
False Gods, Real Men T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grand Theft Auto? T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jennifer's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Nebel End T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Nebel Via T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
One In The Chamber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over The Rainbow T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rads For Rookies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainbow Bridge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ruby Slipper T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scarecrow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Violator S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Kathy Lantz and Michael Massari, 1989
Page Views: 2,410 total · 12/month
Shared By: Michael Walker on Oct 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

As the name implies, this route is pretty radical - even for rookies!

The climb can be found midway up the Nebel Horn Ridge and is identified by a huge chockstone at the top of a prominent chimney. The faces on both sidest of the chimney sport bolt lines. The right four bolt line is Rads for Rookies.

Begin atop a group of convenient flat rocks on the talus slope at the base of the Nebel Horn Ridge, found after scrambling uphill from the Fern Canyon trail and honing in on the huge chockstone. The actual climb begins from a ledge 40' above the talus gained by stepping off a large rock into a crack that angles up and right to the base of the Chockstone chimney. This initial section can be protected with a #4 in the wide crack on the initial crack and a double length runner around a tree on the left of a short slab. If you plan on climbing both bolt lines of the chimney you may want to set up an anchor in the back of the chimney on the ledge. It is easy enough, however, to just climb Rads straight up to the anchors. The initial moves off the ledge are huge jugs and make clipping the first bolt easy. The climbing above is sporty, challenging and aesthetic up the face past three more bolts. A two bolt anchor with aging slings and carabiners awaits on the summit. Rap back to your pack.

Protection

Four QDs, #4, one double length runner, stoppers and small gear for optional anchor and something for the two bolt anchor at the top. The aging slings and rings need replacing.

Photos

Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
The bolts on this have been replaced.

Thanks to OSMP and to the ASCA for supplying the hardware. Nov 1, 2017
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9-
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.9-
Climbing below bolt 1 can be protected with a variety of mid-size gear; a #4 isn't needed. Route stays shaded until afternoon, and crux felt harder than 5.8 with frozen fingers in January. After warming hands and staying on route better, it was a nice climb. Jan 30, 2011
A near link-up with several 9-12as. Jun 12, 2004
IMO one of the best Flats 5.8s, although it may lean a little towards 9- on the 2 crux moves. Jun 12, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Stiff for the rating. Thin moves above 2nd bolt for 5.8. Mar 8, 2002

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