Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Lantz, Beh, Michael Massari, 1989
Page Views: 1,883 total · 7/month
Shared By: Michael Walker on Oct 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


10 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Two and a half stars. Almost stellar, but the scramble up the initial 40 feet to the ledge and then the chimney below the climb are both mediocre.

You can find False Gods...easily enough because it can be identified as the steep, colorful face left of a huge Chockstone in a prominent chimney midway up the upper section of Nebel Horn Ridge. Find the chockstone by following the faint trail leaving from the Fern Canyon Trail to the Nebel Horn Ridge from behind a season wildlife closure sign well on your way to the ridge crest.

P1:Lead up a crack by stepping over from a rock and scramble past a tree (double length runner) and set up a quick anchor in the back of the chimney. Bring your second up.

P2: To reach the bolt climb on the face above, you'll need to run it out up the largely unprotected chimney to the first bolt about 25' off the deck. It might be possible to fiddle some gear, but it is best to be competent at the grade because it is easy. Clip the bolt and step over to the face on big jugs. A quick left traverse along jugs leads to fun yarding up incut holds past 5 more bolts. Some of the moves are just plain great. Find a two bolt anchor. The rap rings and slings need to be replaced.

Protection Suggest change

#4, one double length runner, stoppers and small gear for anchor on ledge, 6 QDs and a couple leaver carabiners and slings.

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