Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,912 total · 14/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jul 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is one of the better east face routes that I have done in the Flatirons. I gave this route a "s" rating even though none of the guide books give it this rating. The two cruxs on the climb have 20-30 foot runouts on them, but the rock is clean and the holds are small but plentiful. Begin about 50feet from the southern edge of the rock.

P1: Angle up to the left passing a small tree. Pass the bulge near the left edge of the rock. This is the crux (5.5), the slab climbing is wonderful here, but your last piece is 20-30 feet below you. This should add to the experience.

P2: We angled up to the right along a crack system and belayed above an offwidth crack.

P3: Head straight up the runout slab and head to the left edge of the rock when you get to the next bulge that traverses the rock. Pass the bulge near the southern edge of the rock near a 18 inch pot hole. (5.4) Follow a crack system on the prow to the summit.

Descent: Sling a thread with a ~9 foot sling and rap 60 feet to the west.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 2 inches, webbing for the rap.

Per Tony B: a #2 and #3 Camalot were the most commonly used placements on my lead of it today. The need for webbing at the rap is occasional, but these days the rap has multiple slings, all of which are pretty solid, and the route is now climbed frequently enough that it is generally well-maintained.

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