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Medusa Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Medusa

L › R R › L A › Z

	Gorgon, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lower Medusa East Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	Turn to Stone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Upper Medusa East Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

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Elevation:	6,000 ft	1,829 m
GPS:	39.9564, -105.2856 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	2,389 total · 17/month
Shared By:	Tony B on Feb 8, 2013
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:

See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….

Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:

flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…

Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.

Access Issue: The Upper Crag of Medusa is subject to the Seasonal Cliff-chicken closure, apparently as part of the Sphinx closure(?). Details

Although not formally named and closed, a closure sign now rests in the notch between upper and lower Medusa. Lower Medusa lies below this closure. The dates are as per the Falcon Closure

Description

The East Face of this formation has been climbed and is not a bad outing at all. It is easy to moderate 5th class, depending on the particular line taken - we did a few different lines.

Getting There

There are multiple ways to reach Medusa. Either approach as for the Sphinx, and at the base, trace to the South and slightly East to lower elevation. The rock you will hit at the lowest point, below Pegasus is Medusa.

Alternatively, head South on the Mesa trail further, and approach as for Pegasus/Angels's Wings from slightly South of these, cross country. While not immediately visible from slightly Northeast, the formation will be easily visible once you get slightly South of due East.

There are several routes climbed up this formation, the best of which is probably the SE arete of the upper half of the formation.

Climbing this formation and off of the backside will deposit you within meters of the base of Pegasus, a fantastic but obscure crag.