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Routes in Medusa

Gorgon, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turn to Stone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Tony Bubb, Sonia Buckley, Nov. 2015
Page Views: 120 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 11, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: The Upper Crag of Medusa is subject to the Seasonal Cliff-chicken closure, apparently as part of the Sphinx closure(?). Details


Turn to Stone is a moderate climb with a few bulges for cruxes. Good protection is available most of the way if it is sought out by a skilled leader.

This climb goes up and right diagonally through a crack system to the top of the rock on the South side of upper Medusa (see the attached photo).

To descend, continue to the summit and off the back (scramble, or do a second pitch).


Midway up the South face of upper Medusa, a long roof guards each the bottom and the top, 10' and 90' off of the ground, respectively. The bottom roof is bypassed via a slot on the right. The upper roof is in 3 sections, with a crack system separating the middle section from the left or right. Turn To Stone ascends the cracks in the middle section.


A light standard rack to 3".



More About Turn to Stone