The Gorgon [Suggest Change]
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft|
|FA:||Sonia Buckley, Tony Bubb, Nov. 2015|
|Page Views:||150 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Nov 11, 2015|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: The Upper Crag of Medusa is subject to the Seasonal Cliff-chicken closure, apparently as part of the Sphinx closure(?). Details
Although not formally named and closed, a closure sign now rests in the notch between upper and lower Medusa. Lower Medusa lies below this closure. The dates are as per the Falcon Closure
Description [Suggest Change]
The Gorgon route is directly nearby and somewhat similar to Turn To Stone. The bulge/roof up top is split by cracks and has a few jugs that limit the difficulty of the climbing to 5.8, however. It is surprisingly easy relative to its initial appearance from the ground, and jugs abound.
Location [Suggest Change]
The Gorgon lies about midway up on the South face of upper Medusa. This is just down and left of 'Turn to Stone'. The route starts through the left side of a roof at a human-sized "pocket" in a large bulge with the first crux there and then passes through the double cracks at the right side of the upper roof to the right of T.T.S. for a second crux. See the attached beta photo for details. This climb is longer than it looks due to a zoom on the image.
Protection [Suggest Change]
A light rack to 3". Crux gear up top is a purple, green ,and yellow Camalot, in that order. Save at least the #0.5 and #0.75. The #2 is optional. The belay is 4 meters up the E. face in a very good horizontal crack and takes mixed cams as well.