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Routes in Medusa

Gorgon, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turn to Stone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Sonia Buckley, Tony Bubb, Nov. 2015
Page Views: 152 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 11, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: The Upper Crag of Medusa is subject to the Seasonal Cliff-chicken closure, apparently as part of the Sphinx closure(?). Details

Description

The Gorgon route is directly nearby and somewhat similar to Turn To Stone. The bulge/roof up top is split by cracks and has a few jugs that limit the difficulty of the climbing to 5.8, however. It is surprisingly easy relative to its initial appearance from the ground, and jugs abound.

Location

The Gorgon lies about midway up on the South face of upper Medusa. This is just down and left of 'Turn to Stone'. The route starts through the left side of a roof at a human-sized "pocket" in a large bulge with the first crux there and then passes through the double cracks at the right side of the upper roof to the right of T.T.S. for a second crux. See the attached beta photo for details. This climb is longer than it looks due to a zoom on the image.

Protection

A light rack to 3". Crux gear up top is a purple, green ,and yellow Camalot, in that order. Save at least the #0.5 and #0.75. The #2 is optional. The belay is 4 meters up the E. face in a very good horizontal crack and takes mixed cams as well.

Photos

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