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Medusa

Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: The Upper Crag of Medusa is subject to the Seasonal Cliff-chicken closure, apparently as part of the Sphinx closure(?). DetailsDrop down

Description

The East Face of this formation has been climbed and is not a bad outing at all. It is easy to moderate 5th class, depending on the particular line taken - we did a few different lines.

Getting There

There are multiple ways to reach Medusa. Either approach as for the Sphinx, and at the base, trace to the South and slightly East to lower elevation. The rock you will hit at the lowest point, below Pegasus is Medusa.

Alternatively, head South on the Mesa trail further, and approach as for Pegasus/Angels's Wings from slightly South of these, cross country. While not immediately visible from slightly Northeast, the formation will be easily visible once you get slightly South of due East.

There are several routes climbed up this formation, the best of which is probably the SE arete of the upper half of the formation.

Climbing this formation and off of the backside will deposit you within meters of the base of Pegasus, a fantastic but obscure crag.

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
● Turn to Stone
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
● The Gorgon
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Turn to Stone
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● The Gorgon
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Medusa peeks out from between the trees just East and below Pegasus. Several routes have been climbed on the upper and lower parts of this large but hidden rock (Bubb/Antin, 1/2013).
[Hide Photo] Medusa peeks out from between the trees just East and below Pegasus. Several routes have been climbed on the upper and lower parts of this large but hidden rock (Bubb/Antin, 1/2013).
The 'Devil's Wings' form a backdrop behind the formation 'Pegasus' at the center of the picture. Upper and Lower 'Medusa' are the two crags poking out from the trees just below Pegasus. Chimera is the small low angle crag near the bottm, left of center.
[Hide Photo] The 'Devil's Wings' form a backdrop behind the formation 'Pegasus' at the center of the picture. Upper and Lower 'Medusa' are the two crags poking out from the trees just below Pegasus. Chimera is…
Medusa rears her head from between the trees below Pegasus.
[Hide Photo] Medusa rears her head from between the trees below Pegasus.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] This crag is indeed signed for raptor closures now, from Feb. 1-Aug. 1. Nov 3, 2015
Holly Barnard
[Hide Comment] Descent info: these are two distinct rock formations, and both have an easy walk off/step off from the summits or nearby. They each basically nearly blend into the hillslopes behind them. Given that, there is a clear and distinct break in the rock. It would be better if they were listed at lower and upper formations. For climbing the east faces: Lower Medusa - the climber's east face right side goes at easy fifth class/scramble. We roped up given the lack of info on the east faces, but it really wasn't necessary. For Upper Medusa, there isn't much of an east "face" to speak of. It is a hike/3rd Class scramble to the top. Aug 21, 2022