Overhang Rock Climbing
Routes in Overhang Rock
|Big Picture, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Honey Badger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Junior Achievement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Missing Link S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|North Ridge, South Spire T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Ouroboros S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Rogue's Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Short Attention Span S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Snake Watching S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|South Ridge of South Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Thulsa Doom S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Tits Out For The Lads S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|West Side (Story) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|GPS:||39.971, -105.287 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||18,798 total, 91/month|
|Shared By:||Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe Overhang Rock does not look like much from the East, but when looking back from the West, it appears to loom over Bear Canyon like a guardian demanding its due. This gorgeous, huge fin holds only a fraction of the routes it could. In the mid-'80s, when Boulder was deciding whether to advance into the future of climbing or succumb to the righteous protectionism of the Boulder City Council, a handful of climber/athletes started developing the West faces of many of the Flatiron crags. Close on the heels of Dale Goddard's Five Year Plan, the Overhang Rock saw two new additions to its then sparse development. Nothing has been added to my knowledge since 1988 leaving numerous difficult possibilities untapped. Climbing on the Overhang Rock generally fires vectorially up its yellow West face, with none of the routes running through the obvious roof system above. Numbering here begins on the left arete (North edge) with #1 being the Layton Kor classic, []. Climbing difficulty spans the gamut with at least one very moderate trad route (the notch) and a few more difficult lines from 5.10 to 5.13.
L->R (per Gold Plated Rocket Pony):
A. Rogue's Arete, 10- R, 2p, gear.
B. Thulsa Doom, 12+, 1p, 115', bolts +/- gear.
C. Snake Watching, 13-, 1p, 150', bolts.
D. Ouroboros, 12+, 1p, 140', bolts.
E. Honey Badger, 13-, 1p, 140', bolts.
F. Tits Out For The Lads, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
G. The Big Picture, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Missing Link, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
I. Short Attention Span, 11+, 1p, bolts.
J. Junior Achievement, 8, 2p, gear.
K. West Side (Story), 6, 2p, 240', gear.
L. North Ridge, South Spire, 5, 1p, 40', gear.
M. South Ridge of South Pinnacle, 7, 1p, gear.
N. East Face, 6, 2p, gear.
Getting ThereTake the trail From NCAR down to the service road. Head South, and after the road winds up-hill a ways the trail to Bear Canyon will branch off into the canyon. This is near the power lines that are protected by a wire fence. After several a hundred yards or so and across the canyon from Stonehenge, follow an indistinct "trail" up to the talus field below Overhang Rock. Expect 3rd class terrain.
Classic Climbing Routes at Overhang Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season