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Elevation: 6,659 ft 2,030 m
GPS: 39.9706, -105.28729
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Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Overhang Rock does not look like much from the East, but when looking back from the West, it appears to loom over Bear Canyon like a guardian demanding its due. This gorgeous, huge fin holds only a fraction of the routes it could. In the mid-'80s, when Boulder was deciding whether to advance into the future of climbing or succumb to the righteous protectionism of the Boulder City Council, a handful of climber/athletes started developing the West faces of many of the Flatiron crags. Close on the heels of Dale Goddard's Five Year Plan, Overhang Rock saw two new additions to its then sparse development. Nothing has been added to my knowledge since 1988 leaving numerous difficult possibilities untapped. However, in the mid 2010s, development continued, and now several long 12+/13- sport routes have been installed on the face.

Climbing on the Overhang Rock generally fires vectorially up its yellow West face, with some of the routes running through the obvious roof system above. Numbering here begins on the left arete (North edge) with #1 being the Layton Kor classic, Rogue's Arete. Climbing difficulty spans the gamut with several moderate trad routes and a more difficult lines from 5.10 to 5.13.

L->R (per Gold Plated Rocket Pony):

A. Rogue's Arete, 10- R, 2p, gear.
B. Thulsa Doom, 12+, 1p, 115', bolts +/- gear.
C. Snake Watching, 13-, 1p, 150', bolts.
D. Ouroboros, 12+, 1p, 140', bolts.
E. Honey Badger, 13-, 1p, 140', bolts.
F. Tits Out For The Lads, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
G. The Big Picture, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Missing Link, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
I. Short Attention Span, 11+, 1p, bolts.
J. Junior Achievement, 8, 2p, gear.
K. West Side (Story), 6, 2p, 240', gear.
L. North Ridge, South Spire, 5, 1p, 40', gear.
M. South Ridge of South Pinnacle, 7, 1p, gear.
N. East Face, 6, 2p, gear.

Getting There Suggest change

Take the trail From NCAR down to the service road. Head South, and after the road winds up-hill a ways the trail to Bear Canyon will branch off into the canyon. This is near the power lines that are protected by a wire fence. After several a hundred yards or so and across the canyon from Stonehenge, follow an indistinct "trail" up to the talus field below Overhang Rock. Expect 3rd Class terrain.

Per Adam bloc: this is an updated approach thanks to FCC. Park at NCAR or Bear Canyon, and hike to join the southbound Mesa Trail. Wind up the steep, easy, paved section to the Bear Canyon turnoff. This is near the power lines that are protected by a wire fence. After several a hundred yards or so, you'll hike a bit past the formation, and the trail will flatten out. Look for a trail heading backwards and hiker's left towards the rock. This trail was improved in 2019 and has a log staircase leading to some talus hopping at the end. It is no longer a loose scramble.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Overhang Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
South Ridge of South Pinnacle
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Junior Achievement
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 42
Short Attention Span
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 23
Overhang Rock | 0676
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 19
The Big Picture
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Missing Link
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 37
Strata-Caster
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 58
Ouroboros
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 89
Snake Watching
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 35
Honey Badger
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 31
Thulsa Doom
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 21
Rikki-Tikki-Tavi
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 17
Release the Hostages
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Ridge of South Pinnacle
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Junior Achievement
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Short Attention Span
 42
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Overhang Rock | 0676
 23
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Big Picture
 19
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Missing Link
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Strata-Caster
 37
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Ouroboros
 58
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Snake Watching
 89
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Honey Badger
 35
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Thulsa Doom
 31
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Rikki-Tikki-Tavi
 21
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Release the Hostages
 17
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Overhang Rock »

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