Overhang Rock Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 6,659 ft | 2,030 m |
GPS: |
39.9706, -105.28729 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 57,021 total · 196/month | |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Closures
Details
September 4 to December 1: the NCAR-Table Mesa/Bear Trail will be closed because of Xcel electric construction work. The NCAR-Bear Connector Trail may see intermittent, full-day closures because of this work.
Per the FCC: September 5 and September 6: the NCAR-Bear Canyon Trail, the NCAR-Bear Connector – along with a Mesa Trail section from NCAR to Fern Canyon– will be closed because of Xcel-related electric work.
Mid-September through Mid-November: the NCAR-Bear Canyon Trail between Stony Hill Road west to NCAR-Bear Connector will be closed 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday. This closure will help OSMP complete some of the department’s final 2013 flood-recovery work to repair trails and restore wildlife and plant habitats in the area.
Per the FCC: September 5 and September 6: the NCAR-Bear Canyon Trail, the NCAR-Bear Connector – along with a Mesa Trail section from NCAR to Fern Canyon– will be closed because of Xcel-related electric work.
Mid-September through Mid-November: the NCAR-Bear Canyon Trail between Stony Hill Road west to NCAR-Bear Connector will be closed 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday. This closure will help OSMP complete some of the department’s final 2013 flood-recovery work to repair trails and restore wildlife and plant habitats in the area.
Description
Overhang Rock does not look like much from the East, but when looking back from the West, it appears to loom over Bear Canyon like a guardian demanding its due. This gorgeous, huge fin holds only a fraction of the routes it could. In the mid-'80s, when Boulder was deciding whether to advance into the future of climbing or succumb to the righteous protectionism of the Boulder City Council, a handful of climber/athletes started developing the West faces of many of the Flatiron crags. Close on the heels of Dale Goddard's Five Year Plan, Overhang Rock saw two new additions to its then sparse development. Nothing has been added to my knowledge since 1988 leaving numerous difficult possibilities untapped. However, in the mid 2010s, development continued, and now several long 12+/13- sport routes have been installed on the face.
Climbing on the Overhang Rock generally fires vectorially up its yellow West face, with some of the routes running through the obvious roof system above. Numbering here begins on the left arete (North edge) with #1 being the Layton Kor classic, Rogue's Arete. Climbing difficulty spans the gamut with several moderate trad routes and a more difficult lines from 5.10 to 5.13.
L->R (per Gold Plated Rocket Pony):
A. Rogue's Arete, 10- R, 2p, gear.
B. Thulsa Doom, 12+, 1p, 115', bolts +/- gear.
C. Snake Watching, 13-, 1p, 150', bolts.
D. Ouroboros, 12+, 1p, 140', bolts.
E. Honey Badger, 13-, 1p, 140', bolts.
F. Tits Out For The Lads, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
G. The Big Picture, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Missing Link, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
I. Short Attention Span, 11+, 1p, bolts.
J. Junior Achievement, 8, 2p, gear.
K. West Side (Story), 6, 2p, 240', gear.
L. North Ridge, South Spire, 5, 1p, 40', gear.
M. South Ridge of South Pinnacle, 7, 1p, gear.
N. East Face, 6, 2p, gear.
Climbing on the Overhang Rock generally fires vectorially up its yellow West face, with some of the routes running through the obvious roof system above. Numbering here begins on the left arete (North edge) with #1 being the Layton Kor classic, Rogue's Arete. Climbing difficulty spans the gamut with several moderate trad routes and a more difficult lines from 5.10 to 5.13.
L->R (per Gold Plated Rocket Pony):
A. Rogue's Arete, 10- R, 2p, gear.
B. Thulsa Doom, 12+, 1p, 115', bolts +/- gear.
C. Snake Watching, 13-, 1p, 150', bolts.
D. Ouroboros, 12+, 1p, 140', bolts.
E. Honey Badger, 13-, 1p, 140', bolts.
F. Tits Out For The Lads, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
G. The Big Picture, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Missing Link, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
I. Short Attention Span, 11+, 1p, bolts.
J. Junior Achievement, 8, 2p, gear.
K. West Side (Story), 6, 2p, 240', gear.
L. North Ridge, South Spire, 5, 1p, 40', gear.
M. South Ridge of South Pinnacle, 7, 1p, gear.
N. East Face, 6, 2p, gear.
Getting There
Take the trail From NCAR down to the service road. Head South, and after the road winds up-hill a ways the trail to Bear Canyon will branch off into the canyon. This is near the power lines that are protected by a wire fence. After several a hundred yards or so and across the canyon from Stonehenge, follow an indistinct "trail" up to the talus field below Overhang Rock. Expect 3rd Class terrain.
Per Adam bloc: this is an updated approach thanks to FCC. Park at NCAR or Bear Canyon, and hike to join the southbound Mesa Trail. Wind up the steep, easy, paved section to the Bear Canyon turnoff. This is near the power lines that are protected by a wire fence. After several a hundred yards or so, you'll hike a bit past the formation, and the trail will flatten out. Look for a trail heading backwards and hiker's left towards the rock. This trail was improved in 2019 and has a log staircase leading to some talus hopping at the end. It is no longer a loose scramble.
Per Adam bloc: this is an updated approach thanks to FCC. Park at NCAR or Bear Canyon, and hike to join the southbound Mesa Trail. Wind up the steep, easy, paved section to the Bear Canyon turnoff. This is near the power lines that are protected by a wire fence. After several a hundred yards or so, you'll hike a bit past the formation, and the trail will flatten out. Look for a trail heading backwards and hiker's left towards the rock. This trail was improved in 2019 and has a log staircase leading to some talus hopping at the end. It is no longer a loose scramble.
Classic Climbing Routes at Overhang Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Weather Averages
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