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Routes in Overhang Rock

Big Picture, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Honey Badger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Junior Achievement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Missing Link S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
North Ridge, South Spire T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ouroboros S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rogue's Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Short Attention Span S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snake Watching S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
South Ridge of South Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thulsa Doom S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tits Out For The Lads S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
West Side (Story) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: Jim Erickson (downclimbed solo)
Page Views: 729 total, 4/month
Shared By: Warren Teissier on May 29, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This short route ascends the steep South Ridge of the Southern Pinnacle of Overhang Rock. This pinnacle sits at the Southern most edge of overhang rock and is striking in its exposure and verticality.

Start on the East face of Overhang Rock at the base of the notch between the pinnacle and some smaller rocks to its South. Climb up some 30 feet of easy rock to the notch. Overcome a small South facing headwall and proceed to the next headwall (crux). Crank up a couple of well protected 5.7 moves and move over to the East face of the pinnacle. Climb up some 15 more feet to the small summit.

Descent - rappel from a slinged rock in the summit or downclimb some 40 feet towards the notch between the pinnacle and the main part of the rock to its North. This downclimb goes at about 5.5. Once on that notch rappel from a large tree down the East face to the base.

Protection

Standard rack, a long sling to sling a horn....

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Actually, sorry to be so picky, but the picture attached is the North Ridge. Nonetheless, this is a fun bit 'o climbing that is somewhat reminiscent of the desert. You can link this with the 2nd pitch of East Face, 5.6, to tag both summits. Apr 12, 2004
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
  5.7+
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
  5.7+
Cool route to a cool summit. We downclimbed to the notch as the sling around the summit block was cut off. Apr 10, 2004