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Routes in Overhang Rock

Big Picture, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Honey Badger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Junior Achievement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Missing Link S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
North Ridge, South Spire T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ouroboros S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rogue's Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Short Attention Span S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snake Watching S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
South Ridge of South Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thulsa Doom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tits Out For The Lads S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
West Side (Story) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Chandler Van Schaack & Shaun Reed, Fall '16
Page Views: 1,581 total · 60/month
Shared By: ChanVan Schaack on Sep 23, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Closures Details

Description

Thulsa Doom is the newest 35-meter route on the West face of Overhang Rock. The route climbs the face to the left of Snake Watching, eventually slithering its way up the striking arete feature that forms the north (left) edge of the upper West face. A 70m rope is MANDATORY. The climb has a bit of everything, from reachy gymnastics down low (the second roof/ 3rd bolt will likely be the crux for the vertically challenged) to super balancy and technical face climbing to straight, bare-down thuggery. There is lots of cool 5.11-ish face climbing thrown in for good measure as well. This climb is totally classic in terms of both the movement and the position. Go Do It!

Many thanks to OSMP, the Access Fund, and the Flatirons Climbing Council for making new-routing possible in the Flatirons!

Location

It is on the far left (north) side of the West Face of Overhang Rock, approximately 20 feet left of the start of Snake Watching. See the description for "Honey Badger" for general approach beta.

Protection

18 bolts plus an anchor. You may wish to stick clip the first bolt. A #0.75 Camalot or equivalent may be used between the 6th and 7th bolts (this terrain is probably 5.8 but runout otherwise). A few long draws or runners are nice for the bolts just before the upper arete but are not mandatory. A 70 METER ROPE IS REQUIRED!!!!

Photos

Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
  5.12d
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
  5.12d
Wow... sick route. Thanks for putting this up. Sep 28, 2016
Shaun Reed
Santa Barbara
  5.12c
Shaun Reed   Santa Barbara
  5.12c
Like many of the routes on Overhang Rock, this is a bit of a journey. I found that the cunning use of slings can significantly help rope drag, especially on the optional 0.75 BD cam and the next bolt. A couple strategic long draws can also be very useful. If you don't have a 0.75 BD, just about any cam smaller than a 0.75 BD should work, too. Or just cruise the easy terrain to the next bolt. Dec 8, 2016
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.13a
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.13a
Thanks for the great line, guys -- this thing is a gem! Feels hard for the grade... Apr 15, 2018
Matt Lawry
Louisville, CO
  5.13a
Matt Lawry   Louisville, CO
  5.13a
CONDITION REPORT: the first bolt through the crux overhang section up high has pulled out of the wall a good 1/2 inch or so. Tried to tighten it down with a wrench, but the sleeve is partially exposed. I don't think it's necessarily dangerous - if it were to pull, your last bolt is just 4 feet or so below you. It should probably be replaced though.... Apr 30, 2018
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
I noticed the bolt sticking out also it does not look like it pulled out to me. It seems like it was not hammered in all the way flush into the wall before it was tightened down. It would be nice if it were replaced at some point but do not think it is a huge concern or that the bolt is spinning in the hole. Not super noticeable either until you hang there and notice it. Great route nice to have an 80 meter rope. May 10, 2018
I can confirm the bad bolt in the upper crux. It used to be flush with the wall. It is definitely something to be concerned about and needs to be replaced. An 80 meter is nice for this one. May 16, 2018

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