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Routes in Overhang Rock

Big Picture, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Honey Badger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Junior Achievement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Missing Link S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
North Ridge, South Spire T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ouroboros S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rogue's Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Short Attention Span S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snake Watching S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
South Ridge of South Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thulsa Doom S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tits Out For The Lads S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
West Side (Story) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Chandler Van Schaack & Shaun Reed, Fall '16
Page Views: 956 total · 59/month
Shared By: ChanVan Schaack on Sep 23, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Thulsa Doom is the newest 35-meter route on the West face of Overhang Rock. The route climbs the face to the left of Snake Watching, eventually slithering its way up the striking arete feature that forms the north (left) edge of the upper West face. A 70m rope is MANDATORY. The climb has a bit of everything, from reachy gymnastics down low (the second roof/ 3rd bolt will likely be the crux for the vertically challenged) to super balancy and technical face climbing to straight, bare-down thuggery. There is lots of cool 5.11-ish face climbing thrown in for good measure as well. This climb is totally classic in terms of both the movement and the position. Go Do It!

Many thanks to OSMP, the Access Fund, and the Flatirons Climbing Council for making new-routing possible in the Flatirons!

Location

It is on the far left (north) side of the West Face of Overhang Rock, approximately 20 feet left of the start of Snake Watching. See the description for "Honey Badger" for general approach beta.

Protection

18 bolts plus an anchor. You may wish to stick clip the first bolt. A #0.75 Camalot or equivalent may be used between the 6th and 7th bolts (this terrain is probably 5.8 but runout otherwise). A few long draws or runners are nice for the bolts just before the upper arete but are not mandatory. A 70 METER ROPE IS REQUIRED!!!!

Photos

Shaun Reed
Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Shaun Reed   Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Like many of the routes on Overhang Rock, this is a bit of a journey. I found that the cunning use of slings can significantly help rope drag, especially on the optional 0.75 BD cam and the next bolt. A couple strategic long draws can also be very useful. If you don't have a 0.75 BD, just about any cam smaller than a 0.75 BD should work, too. Or just cruise the easy terrain to the next bolt. Dec 8, 2016
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
  5.12d
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
  5.12d
Wow... sick route. Thanks for putting this up. Sep 28, 2016