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Routes in Overhang Rock

Big Picture, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Honey Badger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Junior Achievement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Missing Link S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
North Ridge, South Spire T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ouroboros S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rogue's Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Short Attention Span S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snake Watching S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
South Ridge of South Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thulsa Doom S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tits Out For The Lads S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
West Side (Story) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dan Michael and Paul Piana, 1987
Page Views: 3,226 total, 16/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a tricky route and of surprisingly different character form Tits. The tough stuff on The Big Picture comes right away, and as far as I am concerned, from the very first bolt. The Big Picture leans a bit to the right and chases an indistinct system of crystals. It seemed as though once you had latched on to one of these things you had to milk it for 180 degrees, and these are cruddy little quartze inclusions with very little to grab on to and lousy frictional feet. Get back on your feet above bolt 3 and ease into a right-facing corner system. The climbing stays moderately difficult from here to the anchor and through two small overlaps.

While things are probably not harder than 5.11+, almost no move is easier than 5.11. I would tip the route toward hard 5.12b because of the relentlessness of the climbing. If you slip past the crystals, then it is a pretty reasonable bet to pull the red point since the really hard stuff is over in the first 20 feet. This great line gets three stars by any measure, just jump on it.

Protection

The 80 feet of climbing need only 8 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

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Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
I love this route. Aug 21, 2007
TBD
 
TBD  
 
A beautiful route on a beautiful wall. A little cruxy low in the shallow dihedral, but much easier than the first part of the route. A thin move out right before moving back left keeps you on you toes. May 10, 2004
Rossiter gives this line a rating of 12a, but I agree that it is probably harder (5.12b). The opening moves are very crimpy, just keep working the feet up. Although the climbing eases up after clipping the third bolt, there is still no rest until the fourth bolt, and then its sustained balancy moves through the shallow corner. Beware, its a good ways run out on hard reachy moves after the sixth bolt, but once you gain the ledge at bolt 7 its only 5.10 to the anchors. A stellar line, well worth the effort! Aug 10, 2001