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Routes in Overhang Rock

Big Picture, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Honey Badger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Junior Achievement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Missing Link S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
North Ridge, South Spire T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ouroboros S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rogue's Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Short Attention Span S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snake Watching S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
South Ridge of South Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thulsa Doom S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tits Out For The Lads S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
West Side (Story) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 240 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1970s or earlier
Page Views: 537 total, 3/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 23, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a line of least resistance to ascend to the top of the North summit of Overhang Rock. Certainly, asthetics & rock quality are not the reason to do the line. Its second pitch may be a preferred link-up with East Side for considerably less rope drag. The fixed protection, at least 4 well-oxidized pins, of the line begs of the question of the date of the FA.

Find this, um, climb, on the West face of Overhang Rock. It starts in the location of Chorus Line, with its single Star-Dryven 1/4 inch bolt, just uphill from Junior Achievement.

P1. Ascend right up the ramp below Chorus Line, Shibboleth, and find a line, a broken sort-of-corner, to ascend to the notch between the North & South summits of Overhang Rock. You will pass an old ring piton shortly above the ramp in a shallow alcove. You can certainly miss the line by going slightly further uphill following flakes to the notch. If you do this variation, a #4 Camalot will be nice just below the notch & you will see the old ring pin looking down & left. The notch makes for a nice belay.

P2. The climbing actually improves from here. Move back onto the North summit tower, passing an old pin, then over a precarious flake & clip a bent LA pin. This short bit is shared with P2 of East Side. Some briefly-pleasant face climbing up & left moves you left of a threatening overhanging OW crack. A #3 Camalot and another old ring piton protect this bit. A short traverse right brings you to the summit rap slings. Rap to the SE. 0.43 stars. Rockaineering, caveat emptor.

Note, a 60m rope may leave you 10 feet off the ground on rappel. It is possible to rap to a slung tree below the summit block.

Protection

Wires, cams to #3 or 4 Camalot.

Photos

This route is listed in the 1970 edition of High over Boulder, by Ament and McCarty. It might have been listed in earlier editions, which I don't have. No FA info is given therein. I led Steve Johnson up this already-climbed route, in the '70s. Jan 27, 2015