Avg: 1.7 from 7 votes
Routes in Overhang Rock
|Big Picture, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Honey Badger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Junior Achievement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Missing Link S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|North Ridge, South Spire T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Ouroboros S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Rogue's Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Short Attention Span S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Snake Watching S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|South Ridge of South Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Thulsa Doom S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Tits Out For The Lads S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|West Side (Story) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|FA:||Layton Kor and Pat Ament, 1963|
|Page Views:||1,172 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||George Bell on Aug 6, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a scary route with a (formerly) dangerous belay stance. With two good bolts at the belay (thanks, Bruce), I'd now give it 2 stars and an S rating.
This climb climbs just left of the north prow of Overhang Rock. From the boulders at the base, head left and then up about 5-10 feet left of an arete, passing a small tree. Now head up more difficult rock (5.10a) with somewhat sparse pro, eventually climbing the arete itself.
You will now arrive at a 6" wide shelf which used to be the home of a single rusty bolt and numerous terrified belayers. Now home to two excellent bolts and much happier belayers.
The unprotected crux now rises above. Traverse left 6' or so from the ledge and head up an area of shattered rock. This section is 5.10, and there is no pro until you reach a crack under an overhang, about 15' up. Lieback this crack, move left, and continue more easily up and right to the top of the face.
Now walk on up the ridge to the top, and rappel 60 feet to the notch between the main summit and the south summit. Rap east to the ground.