Type: Trad
FA: Layton Kor and Pat Ament, 1963
Page Views: 1,539 total · 7/month
Shared By: George Bell on Aug 6, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Closures Details

Description

This is a scary route with a (formerly) dangerous belay stance. With two good bolts at the belay (thanks, Bruce), I'd now give it 2 stars and an S rating.

This climb climbs just left of the north prow of Overhang Rock. From the boulders at the base, head left and then up about 5-10 feet left of an arete, passing a small tree. Now head up more difficult rock (5.10a) with somewhat sparse pro, eventually climbing the arete itself.

You will now arrive at a 6" wide shelf which used to be the home of a single rusty bolt and numerous terrified belayers. Now home to two excellent bolts and much happier belayers.

The unprotected crux now rises above. Traverse left 6' or so from the ledge and head up an area of shattered rock. This section is 5.10, and there is no pro until you reach a crack under an overhang, about 15' up. Lieback this crack, move left, and continue more easily up and right to the top of the face.

Now walk on up the ridge to the top, and rappel 60 feet to the notch between the main summit and the south summit. Rap east to the ground.

Protection

Standard rack, plus RPs.

Photos