Avg: 1.3 from 8 votes
Routes in Overhang Rock
|Big Picture, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Honey Badger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Junior Achievement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Missing Link S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|North Ridge, South Spire T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Ouroboros S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Rogue's Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Short Attention Span S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Snake Watching S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|South Ridge of South Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Thulsa Doom S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Tits Out For The Lads S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|West Side (Story) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||956 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||Warren Teissier on May 22, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionAs implied by its name, this routes is on the East Face of the rock way up closer to the Southern end of it.
Approach as mentioned on the rock description.
The route starts some 50 feet to the right (North) of the obvious notch at the top of the rock (left of the summit).
P-1 Climbs left following a crack/strata that leads towards a large tree at the base of the notch. This crack is a bit dirty and vegetated.
As a cleaner, more fun alternative, you can tackle the small overhang directly below the notch. The overhang is a bit awkward but goes at about 5.7 and has adequate protection although you need to work for it. Once you clear the overhang continue up a right facing flake and onto a one move 5.7 slab. Merge right with the original route and belay at the top of the notch (past the tree). This pitch is exactly 100ft.
P-2 At the notch as you look towards the summit to the North, you will be faced by a sharp arete. To its left is an imposing overhang with few features. To the right and about 15 feet up, a flake invites passage to the East face. This is a really exposed pitch.
Climb up the sharp arete and clip the three ancient pitons (two of which seemed solid). Take note of the large rocks you are yanking on since the top one (spike at the top) looks ready to come off.
Once you reach the flake traverse right and down onto an improbable and awkward slopping ramp that tappers off to nothing as you traverse it. Placements are available at the end of the traverse. Look between your legs and see a clear shot at the packs you left at the base. You are now above the large overhang on the East Face.
Make a tricky move to reach an easy but somewhat loose ramp that will deliver you to the summit some 30 feet up.
Rope drag is a major issue. Long slings and a strong stomach are a must.
Descent - Rappel from the summit to the tree at the foot of the notch. Two ancient pins exist behind the summit block. A long (20+ft) sling can also be slinged around the summit block.
With a 60m rope we were able to rappel all the way to the ground by-passing the second rappel from the notch tree.