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Routes in Overhang Rock

Big Picture, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Honey Badger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Junior Achievement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Missing Link S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
North Ridge, South Spire T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ouroboros S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rogue's Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Short Attention Span S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snake Watching S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
South Ridge of South Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thulsa Doom S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tits Out For The Lads S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
West Side (Story) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 956 total, 5/month
Shared By: Warren Teissier on May 22, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

As implied by its name, this routes is on the East Face of the rock way up closer to the Southern end of it.

Approach as mentioned on the rock description.

The route starts some 50 feet to the right (North) of the obvious notch at the top of the rock (left of the summit).

P-1 Climbs left following a crack/strata that leads towards a large tree at the base of the notch. This crack is a bit dirty and vegetated.

As a cleaner, more fun alternative, you can tackle the small overhang directly below the notch. The overhang is a bit awkward but goes at about 5.7 and has adequate protection although you need to work for it. Once you clear the overhang continue up a right facing flake and onto a one move 5.7 slab. Merge right with the original route and belay at the top of the notch (past the tree). This pitch is exactly 100ft.

P-2 At the notch as you look towards the summit to the North, you will be faced by a sharp arete. To its left is an imposing overhang with few features. To the right and about 15 feet up, a flake invites passage to the East face. This is a really exposed pitch.

Climb up the sharp arete and clip the three ancient pitons (two of which seemed solid). Take note of the large rocks you are yanking on since the top one (spike at the top) looks ready to come off.

Once you reach the flake traverse right and down onto an improbable and awkward slopping ramp that tappers off to nothing as you traverse it. Placements are available at the end of the traverse. Look between your legs and see a clear shot at the packs you left at the base. You are now above the large overhang on the East Face.

Make a tricky move to reach an easy but somewhat loose ramp that will deliver you to the summit some 30 feet up.

Rope drag is a major issue. Long slings and a strong stomach are a must.

Descent - Rappel from the summit to the tree at the foot of the notch. Two ancient pins exist behind the summit block. A long (20+ft) sling can also be slinged around the summit block.

With a 60m rope we were able to rappel all the way to the ground by-passing the second rappel from the notch tree.

Protection

Standard rack, long slings are a must.
Brian C.
Longmont, CO
  5.6 R
Brian C.   Longmont, CO
  5.6 R
Wow! P2 of this route is scary and probably the worst rock I've experienced in the Flatirons. After toying around a bit with the traverse right, I couldn't make myself commit to the flexing holds over the poor gear, and I cut left to finish on West Side (Story). On rappel, I worked through the traverse moves and was glad I didn't do it after noticing one of the primary holds is fractured and ready to unload. Take some care with this "5.6". I do have to admit though, the pitch is very exposed and would be some classic climbing if not for the poor rock quality. Aug 2, 2014
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
If the prospect of P2 bums you, you can go up & L from the 2nd pin of P2 and find another ring angle, a #3 Camalot, and an optional finger cam to the top. Believe this may be P2 of West Side Story, 5.6. Much less drag! No, despite its appearance, it ain't an overhanging OW! May 24, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Hell, there is yet another way to do P1 when you can't read the guidebook clearly...where's me glasses? There was a break in the overhang slightly to the R of the plumb line from the tree. It sort of looked 5.7 but becomes L-facing. Sort of go up, undercling, fist jam, scrunch, lieback, smear and finally onto Flatiron smearing. Only 70ft, at most, but goes to the tree. There are now 2 rings on the slings at the tree. 0.7 stars. May 5, 2004
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
  5.6
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
  5.6
Would emphasize the rope drag comments on the second pitch. We did it as a group of 3. The second rope basically got stuck, as it was being pulled up, at the beginning of the traverse, even though a 2 foot runner was placed on the 2nd pin, and the third pin had been unclipped. Would recommend a 4 foot runner just prior to the traverse and on any gear placed on the traverse, or use double ropes. We did the South Ridge route, then downclimbed to the notch to reach the beginning of the 2nd pitch of the East Face. Apr 10, 2004