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Routes in Overhang Rock

Big Picture, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Honey Badger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Junior Achievement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Missing Link S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
North Ridge, South Spire T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ouroboros S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rogue's Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Short Attention Span S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snake Watching S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
South Ridge of South Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thulsa Doom S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tits Out For The Lads S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
West Side (Story) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: Sachs, Van Schaack, April 2013
Page Views: 5,211 total, 95/month
Shared By: ChanVan Schaack on May 17, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

A 70m rope is mandatory, and tie a knot in the end!

Like its namesake, this 40+ m climb on the West Face of Overhang Rock is really pretty bad-ass. Honey Badger takes a more or less direct line up the vertical to overhanging face about 40 feet right of Snake Watching.

Access the climb by scrambling up a ramp to the right of the staging area for Snake Watching to a small tree.

From there, climb easy terrain up and right to the first bolt, then climb through a weakness in the roof and up the licheny arête (12-) to easier ground and a 2-bolt midway anchor (4 bolts + anchor; approximately 50 feet). Clip the midway anchor and set off through the first crux, a hard boulder problem that ain’t really over until you reach the A-frame roof above. From the rest after the A-frame roof, fire up through the big roof (crux 2) on bullet edges then jug-haul up through another tier to a pod rest. Rest up here, then fire up the steep headwall to the final crux boulder problem separating you from the anchor.

Oh, you wanna pull through so you can work the moves on toprope? Honey Badger doesn’t give a shit. You’ll just have to climb it.

A huge thanks goes to the Flatirons Climbing Council (FCC) and Open Space and Mountain Parks (OSMP) for allowing yet another great route in the Flatirons.

Location

The best way to approach this climb (and all the other climbs on the West Face of Overhang) is to walk up the Bear Canyon trail until you come to the huge boulder on the left side of the trail (the Shelf Block). Just before the boulder there is a climber's trail leading up and left into the woods. Follow the trail up past a few boulders, contouring and following a few cairns until you reach the big flat rock directly under the power line. From there, head straight up the talus (walking parallel to the cliff) for about 15 yards until you can break left through the woods onto the main talus field below the West Face. Wander across the talus to the base of the climb. The climb starts approximately 40 feet right of Snake Watching. Start by a small tree atop a ramp.

Protection

18 bolts total (14 + two 2-bolt anchors). There are several bolts where long draws are helpful.

To descend, you can lower from the top anchor to the midway anchor (70m mandatory!), then pull and lower again, or you can rap to the midway anchor and repeat. A 70m rope is mandatory!

Photos

Jordan Moore
Berthoud, CO
Jordan Moore   Berthoud, CO
The nut spun loose on one of the bolts of the low anchor while we were climbing. The hanger fell off and needs a new nut. I placed it on a rock at the bottom of the route. I'll replace it within the next few weeks, but if someone else is working the route, you'll save yourself some hassle if you bring a nut (1/2", 3/8"? not sure) and a wrench.
Comment date: 03/13/2017. Mar 13, 2017
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Thanks, Chandler and Ben, for all the hard work that went into putting this route up and keeping it safe for the climbing community. This is a great route! I think a lot of people are going to be pscyhed on this thing. It's not everyday that you get to climb a 40 meter route on sandstone with the Flatirons as the backdrop. Aug 3, 2013
Ted Lanzano
Boulder, CO
Ted Lanzano   Boulder, CO
Thanks, Ben and Chandler, for a great addition to Overhang Rock and Flatirons climbing. Super fun route.

I noticed the right anchor bolt is a bit loose. I hand tightened it as much as I could, but it needs a wrench. Jun 3, 2013
Pinklebear
  5.13a
Pinklebear  
  5.13a
Great route: long, lots of cruxes, cool airy position, great stone.

We were just — JUST — able to lower off the top anchors with a 70m, if the belayer climbs up the ramp a little bit. This will get the climber right back to the ramp, at the stance by the first bolt. TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE!!!

Thanks, Ben and Chandler. Killer climb! May 25, 2013
Ooooo! The honey badger doesn't give a shit. Hilarious video! Nice work getting in one of the better lines left in the Flatirons. Putting up routes like this are butt load of work, underappreciated. 10x harder than just being able to drill while sussing out the route. Good on you, boys! May 20, 2013
Ben Sachs
  5.13a
Ben Sachs  
  5.13a
A true odyssey of a climb.

youtube.com/watch?v=4r7wHMg… May 20, 2013