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Overhang Rock

Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Overhang Rock does not look like much from the East, but when looking back from the West, it appears to loom over Bear Canyon like a guardian demanding its due. This gorgeous, huge fin holds only a fraction of the routes it could. In the mid-'80s, when Boulder was deciding whether to advance into the future of climbing or succumb to the righteous protectionism of the Boulder City Council, a handful of climber/athletes started developing the West faces of many of the Flatiron crags. Close on the heels of Dale Goddard's Five Year Plan, Overhang Rock saw two new additions to its then sparse development. Nothing has been added to my knowledge since 1988 leaving numerous difficult possibilities untapped. However, in the mid 2010s, development continued, and now several long 12+/13- sport routes have been installed on the face.

Climbing on the Overhang Rock generally fires vectorially up its yellow West face, with some of the routes running through the obvious roof system above. Numbering here begins on the left arete (North edge) with #1 being the Layton Kor classic, Rogue's Arete. Climbing difficulty spans the gamut with several moderate trad routes and a more difficult lines from 5.10 to 5.13.

L->R (per Gold Plated Rocket Pony):

A. Rogue's Arete, 10- R, 2p, gear.
B. Thulsa Doom, 12+, 1p, 115', bolts +/- gear.
C. Snake Watching, 13-, 1p, 150', bolts.
D. Ouroboros, 12+, 1p, 140', bolts.
E. Honey Badger, 13-, 1p, 140', bolts.
F. Tits Out For The Lads, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
G. The Big Picture, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Missing Link, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
I. Short Attention Span, 11+, 1p, bolts.
J. Junior Achievement, 8, 2p, gear.
K. West Side (Story), 6, 2p, 240', gear.
L. North Ridge, South Spire, 5, 1p, 40', gear.
M. South Ridge of South Pinnacle, 7, 1p, gear.
N. East Face, 6, 2p, gear.

Getting There

Take the trail From NCAR down to the service road. Head South, and after the road winds up-hill a ways the trail to Bear Canyon will branch off into the canyon. This is near the power lines that are protected by a wire fence. After several a hundred yards or so and across the canyon from Stonehenge, follow an indistinct "trail" up to the talus field below Overhang Rock. Expect 3rd Class terrain.

Per Adam bloc: this is an updated approach thanks to FCC. Park at NCAR or Bear Canyon, and hike to join the southbound Mesa Trail. Wind up the steep, easy, paved section to the Bear Canyon turnoff. This is near the power lines that are protected by a wire fence. After several a hundred yards or so, you'll hike a bit past the formation, and the trail will flatten out. Look for a trail heading backwards and hiker's left towards the rock. This trail was improved in 2019 and has a log staircase leading to some talus hopping at the end. It is no longer a loose scramble.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 7
Rogue's Arete
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 24
Thulsa Doom
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 82
Snake Watching
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 44
Ouroboros
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 28
Honey Badger
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 23
[Redacted]
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 11
Release the Hostages
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 18
The Big Picture
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Missing Link
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 33
Short Attention Span
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 27
Strata-Caster
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Junior Achievement
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 7
West Side (Story)
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
North Ridge, South Spire
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
South Ridge of South Pinnacle
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
East Face
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 1
Flakes of Respite
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 R
 1
Aid East Face
Trad, Aid
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rogue's Arete
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad
Thulsa Doom
 24
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Snake Watching
 82
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Ouroboros
 44
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Honey Badger
 28
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
[Redacted]
 23
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Release the Hostages
 11
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
The Big Picture
 18
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Missing Link
 5
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Short Attention Span
 33
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Strata-Caster
 27
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Junior Achievement
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
West Side (Story)
 7
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
North Ridge, South Spire
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
South Ridge of South Pinnacle
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
East Face
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Flakes of Respite
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 5 pitches
Aid East Face
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 R Trad, Aid

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Gnar from afar.
[Hide Photo] Gnar from afar.
A view of Overhang Rock from the West on Gregory Canyon Trail. Poot Ridge lies just in the foreground to the right side.
[Hide Photo] A view of Overhang Rock from the West on Gregory Canyon Trail. Poot Ridge lies just in the foreground to the right side.
Overhang Rock.<br>
<br>
Climbing photography by:<br>
vandiverphoto@gmail.com.
[Hide Photo] Overhang Rock. Climbing photography by: vandiverphoto@gmail.com.
Goose Rock, Seal Rock and Overhang Rock (left to right) from NCAR
[Hide Photo] Goose Rock, Seal Rock and Overhang Rock (left to right) from NCAR
Overhanging Rock, The Seal & The Goose as viewed from the N/NW. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2006.
[Hide Photo] Overhanging Rock, The Seal & The Goose as viewed from the N/NW. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2006.
The FCC with the help of volunteers and OSMP have established a new approach trail to Overhang Rock.
[Hide Photo] The FCC with the help of volunteers and OSMP have established a new approach trail to Overhang Rock.
The face of Overhang Rock.
[Hide Photo] The face of Overhang Rock.
fixed pins from rappel anchor
[Hide Photo] fixed pins from rappel anchor

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

George Bell
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Summit baggers note: it is just possible to rap from the top all the way to the ground with a 60m rope. The rap goes eastward from a long sling just south of the summit. If you don't have a 60m rope, you will need to do a second rap from a pine tree that you will rap through. May 23, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Weird thing, we rapped this with a 60m cord. It didn't touch down. Got close but had to downclimb. Maybe I got gipped on my 60m cord. Also, the rap now sports 2 slings. Also, the bolt on Chorus Line, 5.9, is a manky 1/4 inch Star-Dryven (edit, thanks for replacing it). Yee uck! May 24, 2004
Bruce Hildenbrand
Silicon Valley/Boulder
[Hide Comment] I replaced the anchor on top of this rock with two 3/8" x 3.5" Stainless Steel Rawl 5-piece bolts and added quick links and chains for rappel. Note, that you can hit the ground with a 70m rope but a 60m or less will require some downclimbing. There is a second rappel anchor, slings around a tree, on the east side of the ridge crest. If you are going to use this second anchor, make sure you angle a bit to the south when rappelling from the top.

The old anchor consisted of two, old, 15-foot long slings around a block tied into two, old fixed pins (see photo above) buried under a layer of dirt on the south side of the slung block.

The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Also, thanks to Tony Bubb for leading Rogue's Arete to get us on top. Oct 9, 2005
[Hide Comment] About how long is the approach to this area? (time or distance would be great. Thx) Apr 28, 2011
Adam Brink
trying to get to Sardinia
[Hide Comment] Expect a burly 45 minute hike with bad trails at the end. Apr 28, 2011
Ted Lanzano
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] All of the routes on Overhang Rock’s west face have been upgraded with half-inch, stainless steel hardware, and the old bolts and anchors have been removed and holes patched. The list of upgraded routes includes Snake Watching, Tits Out for the Lads, The Big Picture, Missing Link, Short Attention Span, and a Chorus Line.

A special thanks to the volunteers for your awesome work - Matt Samet, Terry Murphy, Chris Weidner, Brian Lichtenheld, Dan Levison, Greg Bilinski, and Ted lanzano. Also, thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council and OSMP for making this possible.

The new bolts and anchors were generously provided by the Anchor Replacement Initiative (ARI) and the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA). May 22, 2011
Kevin Murphy
Longmont, CO
[Hide Comment] AWESOME, great work. Very unselfish of you guys. May 23, 2011
Ben Sachs
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] The best way to approach the West Face of Overhang is to walk up the Bear Canyon trail until you come to the huge boulder on the left side of the trail (the Shelf Block). Just before the boulder there is a climber's trail leading up and left into the woods. Follow the trail up past a few boulders, contouring and following a few cairns until you reach the big flat rock directly under the power line. From there, head straight up the talus (walking parallel to the cliff) for about 15 yards until you can break left through the woods onto the main talus field below the West Face. Wander across the talus to the base.
Shelf Boulder (turn here).
May 20, 2013
[Hide Comment] Found a dog leash in the boulder field beneath these climbs. Looks like quite a nice (expensive) one. Contact me if you'd like it back. May 4, 2014
[Hide Comment] An application for bolting a new route on Overhang Rock has been received by the FCC for the May 1 cycle. Details of the proposed route can be found here on the FCC site: flatironsclimbing.org/current-....

Please feel free to post any comments you have on the application. The public meeting will be held at the Spot on June 2, 2016 at 6:30, and everyone is welcome to join and vote there. May 15, 2016
Trevor V.
Santa Barbara, Ca
[Hide Comment] When is the wall in the sun? Looking for some warmer spots for this week? Nov 22, 2016
Mark Roth
Boulder
[Hide Comment] There is a new route application submitted for the January 2019 cycle of the FCC's Fixed Hardware Review Committee application process.

Please visit the FCC site:
flatironsclimbing.org/curre…
to review the application and leave any comments you have. The public vote and meeting is set for 6:30 pm on January 29th at The Spot in Boulder. Jan 2, 2019