Avg: 2 from 7 votes
Routes in Overhang Rock
|Big Picture, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Honey Badger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Junior Achievement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Missing Link S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|North Ridge, South Spire T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Ouroboros S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Rogue's Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Short Attention Span S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Snake Watching S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|South Ridge of South Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Thulsa Doom S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Tits Out For The Lads S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|West Side (Story) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|FA:||[Dan Vasicek and Bob Cormack, 1972]|
|Page Views:||927 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||Warren Teissier on May 29, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis steep two pitch route is on the West face of Overhang rock. It follows a nondescript, right-facing dihedral that doesn't quite reach the base. It is the last big feature on the West face as you are looking North. Note that this climb felt burly, not your average 5.6.
Approach the proximity of the base and scramble up on some 4th class to a dirty ledge.
P1. From the ledge, some large flakes/blocks lead up a crack to a couple of bulges. Protection is good but not necessarily in line with the route. Crank on some large holds up the first bulge and protect in a hand sized crack to the right. Traverse left and up over the second bulge (crux). This section can be made trickier if you try to avoid the bat guano that covers the most obvious and useful jugs. Run up an easy ramp and belay in the ramp/dihedral.
P2. Rossiter has P2 continuing up the now menacing dihedral (5.8). We followed the Roach description. He has P-2 traversing right across a large slab with a lot of exposure (5.4 S). You can protect before the traverse and about 3/4 of the way across (large piece).
From there, climb up a hand crack onto a section of lose rotten block and work your way up an overhanging slot (5.6?) to the ridge. Protection before the slot crux is hard to come by and suspect once found. The summit will be some 50 feet to the south.
Descent - Rappel from the summit down the East face. A 60m rope will reach all the way down, otherwise do a second rappel from a tree lower down.