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Routes in The Slab

$00pr kr33m S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Boys with Power Toys S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bulges T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Diagonal T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Family Man S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Film Noir S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hippopotamus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hunger, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Junior Niblits V7 7A+
Just Another Boy's Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Keyhole, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kr33m in the $33m TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left 'N Up T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Nasty Boys S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Northeast Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Pen 15 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime the Pump S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prime the Pump (Pitch 1) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Return of Dow, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Shalohsh S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sick For Sleeping S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sump Pump S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet NiBLitz S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Syzygy T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Trad kr33m T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Undertow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Up and Right T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Whipped Cream S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whipping Post S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
k00kEEz and krEEm S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
m1n1-kr33m TR V5 6C
s00kr33m S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, Paul Glover/ original anchors and two directionals installed by Kurt Smith and Chris Beh
Page Views: 8,895 total, 81/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Nov 16, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

The route climbs the rainbow-colored, bulging wall right of Boys with Power Toys, on the northwest flank of the Slab, Fern Canyon. Kurt Smith and Chris Beh installed the original anchors and two directional bolts circa 20 years ago, before the ban, but were unable to get back in time to finish the climb. It's been a long wait, but well worth the effort! Props to Kurt and Chris for their eye for a line, and thank you, Chris, for letting us finish it.

Climb two bolts up a thin vertical face on crimps to the base of the bulging section. From here, two nice-and-close clips take you up into the business -- five bolts total of very sustained climbing to get up under the big roof. Lots of slopers, lots of crimpers, lots of tech Beta on porcelain-hard rock that's some of the best sandstone I've seen anywhere, with none of the features quite as good or positive as they look from below.

Rest well under the roof (clip a long sling to this bolt), maneuver to the lip, then clip your final bolt and establish on the slab, to the anchors. Nice views of town from here, so take a moment. ... Both myself and Ted redpointed the route for its FA, today.

Many thanks to Open Space and Mountain Parks, the Flatirons Climbing Council, Flatirons FHRC, and the Access Fund for helping keep new-routing alive and well in the Flatirons; muchas gracias, as well, to Paul G for helping hump the big pack up the hill and with the equipping work. We used entirely stainless-steel half-inch bolts (some are 3.5" long, the others 4.75") and hangers, which should be good for a long while.

For my money, one of the best 5.13s in Colorado. The route is shady all day, save in the summer from 3 p.m. on.

Enjoy!

Note to armchair grammarians and climbing historians: the correct spelling is: s-zero-zero-k-r-capital E-capital E-m. "s00kreem": Supreme like Diana Ross; creamy like half-and-half.

Location

One route right of Boys with Power Toys, on the northwest flank of the Slab, Fern Canyon.

Protection

9 bolts to double-bolt anchors.

Photos

Wow, what an incredible line - took me a really long time to learn all of the subtleties - body positioning, how to move quickly and 'believe' in the crux slimpers, pinches. and knobs (oh my!), and to realize that you really can't 'relax' until you are established on the upper slab below the roof. I can't really say what I think the grade is - I have never before sent an established 13b, but I can say that this one ended up taking a lot more effort than any of the 13a's I have done over the years. Regardless, a very rewarding and humbling experience projecting and finally sending this thing - if you like "techy, power endurance" or whatever that means, then get on it! May 23, 2016
Bobbi Bensman
  5.13a
Bobbi Bensman  
  5.13a
I had so much fun doing this route with Sarah Watson! Such a nice setting and very technical. Be careful at the top roof to not slice your rope - had to chop some meters off. Jul 9, 2015
Ben Sachs
  5.13a
Ben Sachs  
  5.13a
I guess I sort of understand the complaints about the route, but damn, dude, it's pretty good! It is essentially a sandwiched long boulder problem with rests before and after the "meat". However, the climbing before and after the meat (the "bread"?) is pretty frickin' sweet on awesome rock. It's probably 5.11+/5.12- through these sections, so not trivial. Overall, an awesome, fun route and totally worthy. Not sure on the grade. Harder than $00pr kr33m. Apr 24, 2012
Brady Robinson
  5.13a/b
Brady Robinson  
  5.13a/b
Loved it! Well worth a few hikes up the hill. I found the tall/weak/inflexible beta which really helped. Proper foot placement at the final lip is crucial. Aug 3, 2011
reboot
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reboot   .
 
Tried the route 6/5. I don't know Kaelen, and while I think one star is a bit harsh, it certainly doesn't compare to either 13s on Dino Rock. The crux moves may deserve 13-, but they aren't particular interesting. The rest of the route is actually pretty good, but I can see why someone wanting to get on a 13 would be disappointed.

Edit:
Went back again today, it actually climbed better the second time around. Crux required pretty subtle body position if the route is at your limit. Jun 5, 2011
Madaleine
Boulder, Colorado
5.13a/b
Madaleine   Boulder, Colorado
5.13a/b
Fun learning how to grab a couple of the holds through the crux and get a foot up higher than comfortable.... Thanks all for this great route! Nov 14, 2010
Hey Paul Glover, Kaelen Williams is not a chick. He is a 19 year old 5.13 climber. I climbed with him quite a lot & belayed him the first day he tried this route. He redpointed it on day 2.
As for the route, it's a great route. Very hard, too hot the day I tried it! Not an 8 move boulder problem. I believe Kaelen meant the business was like an 8 move boulder problem Jul 20, 2010
Actually, s00krEEm went down to the courthouse yesterday and had its name changed. The new spelling is: s00kr33m. Like grains of sand washing up on the beach, ever changing, ever evolving, so too does it go with such a kr33m33 route name! Jul 14, 2010
Stefan Griebel
Boulder, Colorado
Stefan Griebel   Boulder, Colorado
I just had a good laugh on the nitpickiness over the case-sensitive funky spelling... From the description:

Note to armchair grammarians and climbing historians: the correct spelling is: s-zero-zero-k-r-capital E-capital E-m. "s00kreem": Supreme like Diana Ross; creamy like half-and-half.

Ummm, so wouldn't that be "s00krEEm". If you're gonna talk the talk, you gotta walk the walk. I'm just sayin'...

Great route though. Can't wait to get back on it and figure out the moves better. Jul 14, 2010
Who is this Kaelen chick and what's her problem? Isn't an "eight move boulder problem" nice and long as boulder problems go? and isn't a bunch of hard .11 what one would expect on easier ground on a hard route? What a knit-picky b#%@h! Jul 5, 2010
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.13b
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.13b
Blake, agreed! The lip encounter here is pretty much a quintessential mantle move, one of the best around! Mar 20, 2010
Fred Knapp
  5.13a
Fred Knapp  
  5.13a
Yes, it has rests and it's mostly a boulder problem, but the climbing throughout is very good and fun. An excellent route. Sep 28, 2009
Blake Cash
Chattanooga, TN
Blake Cash   Chattanooga, TN
What's awkward about the lip? It's 5.10 if you know how to mantle. Amazing route...rad holds, solid rock, great setting. Aug 31, 2009
Bart Paull
Boulder, CO
  5.13b
Bart Paull   Boulder, CO
  5.13b
Great continuous route! Nicely done! Jul 9, 2009
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
  5.13b
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
  5.13b
Definitely worth the hype; 5 start route in a 5 star setting. Thanks Matt and Ted. May 28, 2009
Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
This route is cool. Needs more traffic, but it's still bomb.
Gotta get back to finish once this snow crap is over.

EDIT: Finished this yesterday, worth the effort.
Felt good to make that long deadpoint in the flow...
Cleaning up nicely now, get on it! Dec 24, 2008
Nice work boys, should have called it HOnnEEEcuTTZZZZ. Nov 17, 2008
Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13a/b
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13a/b
Nice work guys. This thing looks soo kreem, can't wait to try it. Also, thanks for all the work replacing hardware. Nov 17, 2008