Mountain Project Logo

Routes in East Ironing Board

Crackin' Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
East Ironing Board Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Green Room S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hammer of Thor S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hand Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Hey Slick T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Honemaster Lambada S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyperpolysyllabic T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Que Rasca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Raven, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Seam T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sinatra's World S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Slave to the Rhythm S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Smooth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
South Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sunbreeze T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tommy Gun T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Velvet Elvis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Pat Ament and Gordy Ryan
Page Views: 2,467 total, 13/month
Shared By: Warren Teissier on Oct 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This (together with Que Rasca) is one of my favorite routes in the Flatirons.

It follows two shallow, thin cracks up the center of the East face until they disappear. From there it continues up until it joins Que Rasca before reaching the arete.

The route is very runout, and even in the sections where gear is available, it can be tricky to place due to the shallow nature of the crack. This is not a climb for a budding 5.7 leader....

Start on the East face some 10-20 yards North of a large boulder that almost leans against the face (the route can be seen and approached easily from the saddle West of the Third Flatiron, at the rappel landing).

P1. climb up the blank slab until you reach the first incipient crack, follow it to its end and switch right to the next thin, incipient crack. Easiest climbing follows the right side of the crack. Protection is not available in the first 50 feet. After that, the crack allows gear in every 30 feet or so. Use these opportunities wisely. After the second crack dies, climb up some 15-20 feet to a camouflaged new bolt. From there, a short traverse right and up and back left for some 25 feet puts you at the two camouflaged belay bolts. This pitch is about 60 meters.

P2. Climb around, left or right, the large bulge just above the belay and head to the top of the bulge. Continue to climb directly above the belay for some 30 feet until you reach another brown bolt. This is the juncture with Que Rasca. Clip the bolt and climb up and left (crux) on delicate flakes, friction, and nubbins until you reach the arete. Belay at two bolts (Velvet Elvis belay).

P3. From here, an easy but exposed class 4 50m scramble takes you to a weakness on the ridge. Across the notch you will find two rap bolts.

Rap West down some 20 meters.

Protection

Nuts and cams up to hand size.
David A
Amsterdam, Netherlands
  5.6 R
David A   Amsterdam, Netherlands
  5.6 R
Didn't seem any harder than the first pitch of the standard route on the 1st Flatiron...5.6. Though it is runout indeed. Nov 10, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.6 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.6 PG13
This is the best and most solid of all the E Face Routes on the Ironing Boards. Sep 27, 2014
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.7 R
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.7 R
Very fun climb set in a little traveled area of the Flatirons!

Very runout, but the pro in the seams appeared to be relatively straightforward. I found the second pitch to be both the mental and physical crux, with 5.7 moves on a few crunchy holds a good ways above the bolt.

As was stated above, the bolts blend in VERY well. I spotted the first bolt from 15' below, but upon climbing higher, I could no longer find it! After a few minutes of searching, I finally looked down and hey, there it was at my waist! The bolts afterwards are much easier to locate.

3 star route overall, could easily be 4 stars if it were a little less crunchy (but that just makes it more exciting, right?). Aug 12, 2013
Mic Fairchild
Boulder
  5.7 R
Mic Fairchild   Boulder
  5.7 R
This is a really fine climb but without much pro. The protection bolt on pitch 1 is so well camo'ed that it surprised me a bit. Excellent climbing in a great location. Wonderful views of the 3rd. Nov 15, 2011