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Routes in East Ironing Board

Crackin' Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
East Ironing Board Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Green Room S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hammer of Thor S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hand Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Hey Slick T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Honemaster Lambada S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyperpolysyllabic T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Que Rasca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Raven, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Seam T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sinatra's World S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Slave to the Rhythm S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Smooth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
South Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sunbreeze T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tommy Gun T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Velvet Elvis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Colin Lantz, 1991
Page Views: 1,977 total · 26/month
Shared By: Colin Lantz on Jul 30, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details

Description

Start just right of Slave to the Rhythm. Undercling and kneebar out the huge, right-facing flake until you can gain some face holds back left moving up to the third bolt. After the fourth bolt, traverse hard right on perfect pebbles similar to the holds on Slave and catch a good rest in a right-facing corner. Now comes the hard part... thin face holds and pebbles lead up past the fifth, sixth, and seventh bolts. Now set up up for the final boulder problem dyno over the last bulge.

Be sure to do the big king swing after cleaning your draws.

FA: summer 1991.

Protection

8 QDs with fixed anchors. It is a little difficult to clean QDs from the anchor (rope drag/rope shredder). I used to leave fixed QDs on the last two bolts and clean from those.

Photos

Colin Lantz
Nederland, CO
 
Colin Lantz   Nederland, CO
 
Similar to Slave but harder and much thinner. I'd give it 4 stars if it wasn't right next to Slave which is unquestionably a four star route. I think George Squibb did the 2nd ascent. Jul 30, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
Anyone know if this route still goes? It looks like it sees no traffic whatsoever, and I have heard holds have broke making it harder than 14a. Anyone know anything new about this route as it seems to have been off the radar for quite sometime.... Aug 22, 2012
George Squibb
Boulder, CO
  5.14a
George Squibb   Boulder, CO
  5.14a
Thanks, Colin. Yes, I did the 2nd ascent on 10-10-97. Alex Honnold and Chris Weidner also both did the route in 2008. Tommy did it some time earlier. Apr 9, 2014
In the interest of saving someone's tips, I thought I'd post this conditions update.

I tried this route today (9/29/14), and sadly I think it has broken. There was a section between the 5th and 6th bolts that's clearly missing a hold, at least to be 14a. I checked in with Chris Weidner (who I knew climbed the route in 2008), and he confirmed that Nick Martino broke a hold a few years ago, and he doesn't think it has been climbed since.

It's still likely that the route would go, but the broken section seemed at least V10-ish. I also think the route has gotten slightly chossy and dirty from lack of traffic. If anyone has sent the route in its current state, I'd be curious to hear.

Cheers! Sep 29, 2014

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