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Routes in East Ironing Board

Crackin' Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
East Ironing Board Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Green Room S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hammer of Thor S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hand Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Hey Slick T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Honemaster Lambada S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyperpolysyllabic T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Que Rasca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Raven, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Seam T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sinatra's World S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Slave to the Rhythm S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Smooth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
South Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sunbreeze T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tommy Gun T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Velvet Elvis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Description

The first major formation west of the Third Flatiron. A four-humped fin oriented generally south (nadir) to north (zenith). Marked, when viewed from the east, by a large balanced rock on the lower end. See Rossiter "The Flatirons", p. 172 for a great photo and a not-so-useful description of the approach.
Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

From Chautauqua, hike up the Kinnikinnic road, or up the Chautauqua trail, past the Bluebell Shelter, and onto the Royal Arch Trail. Pass the 'y' turnoff to the 2nd and 3rd Flatiron access trail, and continue up. Where the trail takes a sharp U-turn bend to the left, there is a large boulder in the trail with "(left arrow) Royal Arch” painted on it. Take a hard right, over a fallen tree, maybe past a “Seasonal Wildlife Closure” sign, and gain an incipient path down into Bluebell Canyon. The trail dips and rolls a bit, crosses to the canyon bottom, and then begins to climb. Follow the obvious line of least resistance, and work far right or bear right when a sketchy scramble seems imminent. Shortly you will encounter a 3rd class scramble up to a level area with a large gray boulder on your right and a wonderful profile of the third at two-o'clock. You are at the nadir of the East Ironing Board. Work right to gain the bottom of the east face, or turn sharply left and follow the trail up to the west face. Stay close to the rock as you scoot around the end, and remember to bear right when things look sketchy. Shortly, you will arrive in the gully of the West face, and gain an obvious trail which switchbacks up. The first obvious line is Hunka' Hunka' Burnin' Love (10b), a 7 bolt line which has three rather closely-spaced bolts protecting the initial passage through a pebbled roof onto a face. Further up the slope you will see the obvious roof through which one gains access to Velvet Elvis (11a), Hammer of Thor (10c) and Sunbreeze (10b).

A giant boulder jam and slab bar access to the upper end of the East Ironing Board, and the Green Thumb. Either pass the jam on the right (tricky) or on the left via an exposed 4th class slab solo, to get to the fun routes on the Green Thumb, or approach [as far] Friday and Saturday's Folly and follow the trail up to the Green Thumb (faster if only interested in the upper routes). On Green Thumb, Far Niente (12a, bolts), Green Corner (8+ gear) and Diagonal Finger Crack (9, gear) are popular, if short, routes. Diagonal Finger Crack remains one of my favorite short cracks in the area.

I've done recon hikes three times to this area. It is peaceful, rarely crowded and offers wonderful climbing. Hopefully this beta will speed your approach.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Ironing Board

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George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Note: The Green Thumb is now listed as a separate rock from the East Ironing Board. See that rock for climbs on the Green Thumb. Feb 25, 2002

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