Avg: 2 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 50 ft (15 m)|
|FA:||S. Guerin, 1981|
|Page Views:||611 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Sep 10, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
Updated details may be found here.
Start up into the corner on stems, moving from one small but good nubbin to another on the wall. Small stances allow you to place a piece of protection every several feet, but mind your stances and do not slip. As you progress, the climbing reaches the mid-to-hard 5.10 level, then the crux pro can be placed or clipped if already in place as it presently is, a small BD stopper welded-in by a long fall. Back this up with a tiny cam above it, and go for the crux, progressing upward until you get a shallow, sloping pocket on the left near the top of the corner and the flake on the right. Power up and over the lip, with due consideration to the possibilities of:
1) a long fall to the starting ledge if you get rope stretch or a poor belay.
2) the possibility of placing gear here, out of the pumpy and insecure stance.
3) the chance that the gear would pull anyway.
In consideration of these, I simply continued to climb, as it had eased up to 5.10 by this point. Pulling onto the slab might be 5.9 or so, and maybe could have protected with a blue (#3) Camalot. Make easy moves up the slab to the anchors.
Presently there is a small, fixed BD stopper not far below the crux... it will hold a fall, even one from above the crux (*grin*). It can be backed up with a tiny cam just above it (i.e., the smallest Alien). It appeared that a blue Camalot would be placeable in the undulating runnel up top upon topping out, when otherwise reaching groundfall territory, but the climbing there is easier (5.9- ?) and I didn't have one with me anyway, so I am not sure.
The climb protected well enough WITHOUT clipping the retro-bolt just out right on 'The Stars At Noon.'
A bolted anchor with Fixe rap rings lies just up and left of the top-out.