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Routes in East Ironing Board

Crackin' Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
East Ironing Board Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Green Room S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hammer of Thor S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hand Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Hey Slick T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Honemaster Lambada S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyperpolysyllabic T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Que Rasca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Raven, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Seam T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sinatra's World S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Slave to the Rhythm S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Smooth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
South Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sunbreeze T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tommy Gun T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Velvet Elvis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 512 total, 5/month
Shared By: neil chelton on Jan 16, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This sweet crack climb follows the furthest right crack on the east face. Hike uphill along the base of the east face past all the other routes. Begin 30 feet left of the enormous corner.

P1: Delicately ascend the runout slab to join the main crack system. Follow the exciting flared hands/offwidth crack until you have no more rope. Save some big pieces (3-5 inch) for the belay.

P2: Continue up the crack passing two trees (optional belays) to reach the summit. Rappel 55 feet west from bolted anchors on 'The Raven'.

Protection

Standard Flatiron rack with extra hand/ offwidth size (2-5 inch) gear. Offset cams useful. The first 100ft is a little runout but possible to protect with some imagination.

Photos

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At the beginning, you can start with the right crack, or cross ten feet of slab to engage the left crack, which I did. The cracks converge about 30 feet up.

Protect where you can, which is not often. Lots of pine needles must be brushed off of holds and out of gear placements. The first tree makes a good belay anchor and can be reached in 190-195 feet. Along the way, I wedged a good five-inch Tube Chock in the vicinity of a #6 Cam placement. I would like to have brought a second #5 Cam. Nov 21, 2017
neil chelton
Boulder, CO
 
neil chelton   Boulder, CO
 
I'm not sure if this is a first ascent or not, but I can't find it in any guidebooks or websites, so I climbed the thing and gave it a name. The crack is currently filled with mud, making protection harder to place. More traffic up this awesome route should clear it out. It's totally worth the extra uphill hike to reach this beauty. Jan 16, 2010