Slave to the Rhythm
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Dan Michael |
Page Views: | 11,100 total · 55/month |
Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Nov 10, 2008 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
This routes is closed Feb. 1 to July 31.
Unusually steep for the Flatirons and peppered with pebbles and cobble stones, Slave to the Rhythm (STTR) is Boulder's little slice of Maple Canyon.
Climb an easy groove and traverse in from the left making some hard moves to gain an obvious set of huecos about 15 feet off the ground. From the huecos, make a long reach to a pebble (crux#1), and continue moving right using small pockets and cobbles until you reach the first good rest. After recovering, make a couple of more right trending moves and then crank through a very pumpy section of pebbles and cobbles (crux#2) that ends at a horizontal break. When you feel rested, kneebar past a very steep, right facing lieback feature (crux #3) to the chains. If you are pumped, clipping the anchors could be challenging.
Besides the huge hike and a little traversing, there is nothing bad to say about this route. The moves are fun, the rock is great, the holds are easy on the skin, and there is no glue or manufacturing. Too bad there aren't 50 more route just like it! Wait, there probably are, they just can't be bolted.
Location
Protection
This route sports had old ring bolts and a two bolt anchor with chains. Be prepared to stickclip the first bolt. You may also want a kneepad for the upper crux.
Per Tristan Bradford: this route sports ALL stainless steel hardware donated by the ASCA and was rebolted by Curt Macneill and Stephan Griebel in 2012 to include a two bolt anchor with loweroffs. The route now has all steel draws, leave yours at home. Still be prepared to stickclip the first bolt or climb in from the left off a jug, You may also want a kneepad for the upper crux.
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