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Slave to the Rhythm
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 3.9 from 13
votes
Routes in East Ironing Board
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Crackin' Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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East Ironing Board Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Green Room S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hammer of Thor S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hand Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Hey Slick T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Honemaster Lambada S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hyperpolysyllabic T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Que Rasca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Raven, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Seam T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sinatra's World S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Slave to the Rhythm S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Smooth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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South Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Sunbreeze T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tommy Gun T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Velvet Elvis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft |
| FA: | Dan Michaels |
| Page Views: | 7,510 total · 62/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Nov 10, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click herebouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for the latest in raptor closures.
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click herebouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July:
Details
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Details
bouldercolorado.gov/index.p…;;;;>;;;>;;;>;;;>;;;
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Details
bouldercolorado.gov/index.p…;;;;>;;;>;;;>;;;>;;;
Description
Unusually steep for the Flatirons, and peppered with pebbles and cobble stones, Slave to the Rhythm (STTR) is Boulder's little slice of Maple Canyon.
Climb an easy groove and traverse in from the left making some hard moves to gain an obvious set of huecos about 15 feet off the ground. From the huecos, make a long reach to a pebble (crux#1), and continue moving right using small pockets and cobbles until you reach the first good rest. After recovering, make a couple of more right trending moves and then crank through a very pumpy section of pebbles and cobbles (crux#2) that ends at a horizontal break. When you feel rested, kneebar past a very steep, right facing lieback feature (crux #3) to the chains. If you are pumped, clipping the anchors could be challenging.
Besides the huge hike and a little traversing, there is nothing bad to say about this route. The moves are fun, the rock is great, the holds are easy on the skin, and there is no glue or manufacturing. Too bad there aren't 50 more route just like it! Wait, there probably are, they just can't be bolted.
Climb an easy groove and traverse in from the left making some hard moves to gain an obvious set of huecos about 15 feet off the ground. From the huecos, make a long reach to a pebble (crux#1), and continue moving right using small pockets and cobbles until you reach the first good rest. After recovering, make a couple of more right trending moves and then crank through a very pumpy section of pebbles and cobbles (crux#2) that ends at a horizontal break. When you feel rested, kneebar past a very steep, right facing lieback feature (crux #3) to the chains. If you are pumped, clipping the anchors could be challenging.
Besides the huge hike and a little traversing, there is nothing bad to say about this route. The moves are fun, the rock is great, the holds are easy on the skin, and there is no glue or manufacturing. Too bad there aren't 50 more route just like it! Wait, there probably are, they just can't be bolted.
Location
STTR is located on the upper portion of the East Ironing Board. It is the middle of the three sport routes and is equipped with ring bolts. Look for three small huecos at the beginning of the route.
Protection
This route sports old ring bolts and a two bolt anchor with chains. Be prepared to stick clip the first bolt. You may also want a kneepad for the upper crux.
Beware: per Dr. Chris Lee, the 4th bolt (itself) spins and should NOT be considered safe!
Beware: per Dr. Chris Lee, the 4th bolt (itself) spins and should NOT be considered safe!
Denver, CO.
West of Boulder, CO
Glenwood Springs, CO
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
denver, co
Boulder Colorado
denver, co
Nederland, CO
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
Also, if that comment didn't cast a total pall on STTR, this one might:
The good flake edge just past and left of "the skinhead" is no longer on the wall.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Sep 15, 2016