Lichen Linguistics
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British PG13
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Aaron Lucas and Jake Burton, Oct. 29, 2022 |
Page Views: | 248 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Aaron Lucas on Oct 30, 2022 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
Lichen Linguistics is a four pitch route that follows the arete on a feature to the right of the East Ironingboard. The basic idea is to climb to the right of the arete and find a path that suits your climbing lingo. If your feet speak runout face, climb closer the arete, of if you speak crack, climb further right. Note the route has some lichen and loose rock, but it's not awful.
P1. The start of the climb is just behind Crackin' Up, and the opening moves are over a block. Once on the arete, go under the small roof until you find a nice corner to go over the roof. Now follow the easy fact to a nice big tree, and belay.
P2. From the tree, follow a line up fun easy cracks. Then decide if you want to pull over the face where the crack ends or head right to easier ground. This pitch ends at the field of green where many plants have gathered. We set a belay in the corner. Note: an alternate route can be done on the arete, but it lacks a belay point. It's nice for scrambling.
P3. Continue up the face/cracks to the right of the arete and left of the corner. When you get about halfway, decide if you want to attach the bush to the right or continue up the face. Note: the corner to the right is not recommended due to loose rock. We belayed at the very top using a tree.
P4. This is not really climbing as it is traversing over ridges. Follow the ridges until you get to the summit of Green Thumb.
Descent: rappel from Green Thumb using the anchors down to the west.
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