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Routes in East Ironing Board

Crackin' Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
East Ironing Board Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Green Room S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hammer of Thor S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hand Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Hey Slick T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Honemaster Lambada S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyperpolysyllabic T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Que Rasca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Raven, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Seam T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sinatra's World S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Slave to the Rhythm S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Smooth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
South Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sunbreeze T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tommy Gun T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Velvet Elvis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 71 total, 0/month
Shared By: Steve Annecone on Dec 13, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is far nicer than it's name would suggest. It's located just uphill from Tommy Gun and the Raven dihedral, and downhill from the Green Thumb. It is easily identified by sighting the thin crack heading up the steep, clean sandstone face.

Start by angling right to a small tree, then fire straight up the thin crack/seam. Thin pro can protect the section above the tree and below the first bolt. It starts getting hard there and seems to just get harder as you progress upward... pretty sustained, excellent climbing throughout the bolted top, lots of very thin footwork too!

I recall my partner stopped to pro above the 3rd bolt, and that's how I'd probably do it too on lead, but it's pumpy to place the gear. And I could see some people rather running it out to the ledge, it's maybe 10 or 15 feet past the bolt or so. At any rate, I was glad to be following this sustained pitch!

Belay on the horizontal ledge above the crack, which ends up more or less below the second pitch roof of Tommy Gun. There are no rap bolts there so you can either finish with the Tommy Gun roof (5.11a) which is fun and exposed, or I believe it would be possible to 4th class traverse directly over and down to your right to the Raven rappel.

Protection

Three bolts protect the crux section but bring small to medium nuts and possibly smaller-range Aliens/cams.

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