Avg: 3.7 from 36 votes
|Type:||Sport, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Paul Piana and Brett Ruckman, 1987|
|Page Views:||7,229 total · 28/month|
|Shared By:||George Bell on Aug 13, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
Updated details may be found here.
Hike up to the SW of the East Ironing Board. This route is obvious as it is the last place to get on the face before a huge roof. You should be able to spot the bolts above this roof.
At the base is a small overhang which leads to a left-facing dihedral (the route Sunbreeze). Clip a pin in this first overhang and crank over, then move right into the base of the dihedral (optional belay or pro, large cams needed). If you don't bring a big cam, you could take a pretty big fall just before you clip the first bolt (although it is fairly easy here) [a pink tri-cam is reported to fit in a pocket around here].
Move left out of the dihedral, clipping 7 bolts as you climb diagonally up and left above the big roof on cemented pebbles (9+). Try not to think about one of the pebbles popping off. Belay at two bolts.
The final short pitch fires up past 3 bolts (11a). This is one of the easier 11a's I have done. From a 2 bolt anchor on the top, rap 130' back down over the roof.