Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Piana and Brett Ruckman, 1987
Page Views: 6,554 total · 28/month
Shared By: George Bell on Aug 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details

Description

This is a wild and exciting route that traverses the lip of a huge overhang. If you fall off the traverse pitch you have the feeling you'd be dangling in space.

Hike up to the SW of the East Ironing Board. This route is obvious as it is the last place to get on the face before a huge roof. You should be able to spot the bolts above this roof.

At the base is a small overhang which leads to a left-facing dihedral (the route Sunbreeze). Clip a pin in this first overhang and crank over, then move right into the base of the dihedral (optional belay or pro, large cams needed). If you don't bring a big cam, you could take a pretty big fall just before you clip the first bolt (although it is fairly easy here) [a pink tri-cam is reported to fit in a pocket around here].

Move left out of the dihedral, clipping 7 bolts as you climb diagonally up and left above the big roof on cemented pebbles (9+). Try not to think about one of the pebbles popping off. Belay at two bolts.

The final short pitch fires up past 3 bolts (11a). This is one of the easier 11a's I have done. From a 2 bolt anchor on the top, rap 130' back down over the roof.

Protection

7 QDs + slings, but you will need a large Friend (#3.5 or #4) for the first (optional) belay. Some small gear and small tri-cams can be useful before the first bolt, and in between bolts.

Photos