Type: | Sport, 2 pitches |
FA: | Paul Piana and Brett Ruckman, 1987 |
Page Views: | 7,854 total · 28/month |
Shared By: | George Bell on Aug 13, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
Per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director, Boulder Climbing Community: the seasonal raptor closure on the Third Flatiron will be extended beyond July 31st, 2023. The reopening date is TBD. This has been lifted as of 7/26/23 from the OSMP website per Zachary Henry.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
This is a wild and exciting route that traverses the lip of a huge overhang. If you fall off the traverse pitch you have the feeling you'd be dangling in space.
Hike up to the SW of the East Ironing Board. This route is obvious as it is the last place to get on the face before a huge roof. You should be able to spot the bolts above this roof.
At the base is a small overhang which leads to a left-facing dihedral (the route Sunbreeze). Clip a pin in this first overhang and crank over, then move right into the base of the dihedral (optional belay or pro, large cams needed). If you don't bring a big cam, you could take a pretty big fall just before you clip the first bolt (although it is fairly easy here) [a pink tri-cam is reported to fit in a pocket around here].
Move left out of the dihedral, clipping 7 bolts as you climb diagonally up and left above the big roof on cemented pebbles (9+). Try not to think about one of the pebbles popping off. Belay at two bolts.
The final short pitch fires up past 3 bolts (11a). This is one of the easier 11a's I have done. From a 2 bolt anchor on the top, rap 130' back down over the roof.
Hike up to the SW of the East Ironing Board. This route is obvious as it is the last place to get on the face before a huge roof. You should be able to spot the bolts above this roof.
At the base is a small overhang which leads to a left-facing dihedral (the route Sunbreeze). Clip a pin in this first overhang and crank over, then move right into the base of the dihedral (optional belay or pro, large cams needed). If you don't bring a big cam, you could take a pretty big fall just before you clip the first bolt (although it is fairly easy here) [a pink tri-cam is reported to fit in a pocket around here].
Move left out of the dihedral, clipping 7 bolts as you climb diagonally up and left above the big roof on cemented pebbles (9+). Try not to think about one of the pebbles popping off. Belay at two bolts.
The final short pitch fires up past 3 bolts (11a). This is one of the easier 11a's I have done. From a 2 bolt anchor on the top, rap 130' back down over the roof.
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