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Velvet Elvis [Edit]
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.7 from 27
votes
Routes in East Ironing Board
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Crackin' Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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East Ironing Board Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Green Room S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hammer of Thor S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hand Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Hey Slick T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Honemaster Lambada S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hyperpolysyllabic T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Que Rasca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Raven, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Seam T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sinatra's World S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Slave to the Rhythm S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Smooth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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South Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Sunbreeze T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tommy Gun T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Velvet Elvis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Paul Piana and Brett Ruckman, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 5,196 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Aug 13, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click herebouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for the latest in raptor closures.
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click herebouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July:
Details
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Details
bouldercolorado.gov/index.p…;;;;>;;;>;;;>;;;>;;;
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Details
bouldercolorado.gov/index.p…;;;;>;;;>;;;>;;;>;;;
Description [Edit]
This is a wild and exciting route that traverses the lip of a huge overhang. If you fall off the traverse pitch you have the feeling you'd be dangling in space.
Hike up to the SW of the East Ironing Board. This route is obvious as it is the last place to get on the face before a huge roof. You should be able to spot the bolts above this roof.
At the base is a small overhang which leads to a left-facing dihedral (the route Sunbreeze). Clip a pin in this first overhang and crank over, then move right into the base of the dihedral (optional belay or pro, large cams needed). If you don't bring a big cam, you could take a pretty big fall just before you clip the first bolt (although it is fairly easy here) [a pink tri-cam is reported to fit in a pocket around here].
Move left out of the dihedral, clipping 7 bolts as you climb diagonally up and left above the big roof on cemented pebbles (9+). Try not to think about one of the pebbles popping off. Belay at two bolts.
The final short pitch fires up past 3 bolts (11a). This is one of the easier 11a's I have done. From a 2 bolt anchor on the top, rap 130' back down over the roof.
Hike up to the SW of the East Ironing Board. This route is obvious as it is the last place to get on the face before a huge roof. You should be able to spot the bolts above this roof.
At the base is a small overhang which leads to a left-facing dihedral (the route Sunbreeze). Clip a pin in this first overhang and crank over, then move right into the base of the dihedral (optional belay or pro, large cams needed). If you don't bring a big cam, you could take a pretty big fall just before you clip the first bolt (although it is fairly easy here) [a pink tri-cam is reported to fit in a pocket around here].
Move left out of the dihedral, clipping 7 bolts as you climb diagonally up and left above the big roof on cemented pebbles (9+). Try not to think about one of the pebbles popping off. Belay at two bolts.
The final short pitch fires up past 3 bolts (11a). This is one of the easier 11a's I have done. From a 2 bolt anchor on the top, rap 130' back down over the roof.
Protection [Edit]
7 QDs + slings, but you will need a large Friend (#3.5 or #4) for the first (optional) belay. Some small gear and small tri-cams can be useful before the first bolt, and in between bolts.
Boulder, CO
Can you do two single rope raps to the ground? I've only been up there once and got rained on, but it appeared that maybe you could rap from the top back down to the hanging rap (at the end of the traverse), and then rap to the ground from there. Is that possible? Nov 13, 2001
Boulder, CO
Westminster, Colorado
Around Boulder, CO
From the top anchors, my 70M rope was laying both ends on the ground by quite a bit (7M extra each end), so a 60M would reach with spare rope as well, as long as you don't try to aim to the East on rap. a 50M definitely can not make it.
Wasps by second both in 2-finger pocket- avoid by clipping, then going up, left, and back down. They did not 'bug' us when we did that.
Great route, but hard to compare to the super-classics. 2.5 stars?
It's a short crux with a lot of 5.10- climbing around it. Avoiding slipping was the crux, not any true complexity. Reach will be a factor for some people.
The top anchor needs webbing replacement. Aug 18, 2003
Looks like a dinner plate has peeled off to the right of the second bolt on P2. The clip at this bolt felt dicey, as blowing it would land you on your belayer.
Fun, interesting climbing, with great position. Nov 3, 2012
We also replaced the rusty #1 knifeblade piton (first pro on the first pitch) with a new #5 Bugaboo piton. The new piton is significantly thicker, so while it's never a good idea to whip onto a thin pin like this, the new pin is much more solid and might actually keep you off the ground.
Bolts and equipment were supplied by the Boulder Climbing Community (BCC), an organization that relies on the support of climbers like you: boulderclimbingcommunity.net/.
All work was done under permit from Boulder OSMP.
A few additional comments:
1) It is very hard to see the top anchors from the last (3rd) bolt on the second pitch. Just keep going. They are up there.
2) From the top of the second pitch, consider continuing north along the ridge (super fun 5.0). In about 100', you come to the bolts at the top of The Raven. Now you can rap down (~50') and toprope The Raven, a super-cool 5.11 stemming climb. Nov 7, 2014