Avg: 2.9 from 25 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 5 pitches|
|Page Views:||4,099 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Warren Teissier on Oct 22, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Take the Skunk Canyon approach. Once you reach the Dreadnought hike the steep gully between its East Face and Achean Pronouncement to where the rock becomes well-defined and less licheny (roughly 300 feet).
Look for a small, left-facing dihedral with a couple of bushes in it. This is the start of the route.
Climb up the dihedral, and protect in a crack at its bottom, make it past the first bush, and exit to the right of the dihedral or continue up a through above the dihedral. Either way, reach the arete, and set up your first belay.
From here, the route follows the arete (left) all the way to either of the East or West summits. The 5.5 rating is for the first pitch, and the arete traverse is considerably easier but mostly unprotected and sometimes licheny.
Along the way you will make it past a small tree partially blocking the arete and onto a good ledge where you can rest before tackling the final steeper section.
At the foot of the summit blocks, there is a large ledge. You can do an easy but exposed 40 foot scramble to either summit from here.
Descent: Scramble back down to the ledge below the sumit blocks and climb South down a hole between them. Scramble down West and South via an alleyway that will deposit you below the South side of the Dreadnought. Hike East to reach the Porch Alley trail.