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Routes in The Boulderado

Fistula T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hell in a Bucket T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ho Hum T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Idle Hands T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jam It T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jam It (Variation) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jazz on the Mezzanine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mons T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Qs S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Suite 11 T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Elevation: 7,376 ft
GPS: 39.997, -105.416 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 33,246 total, 161/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

This south-west facing wall is a [possible] place to take a first-time climber. The staging area and the anchor access make it a potentially hazardous climbing location for the unwary climber. It has a number of easy climbs in close proximity up a clean open wall. Anchor placements are a little tricky though; the ledge up top, while safe, does not afford many things to set up an anchor with. Recommend bringing some long slings, and some cams to do the job right. Top Rope access is via a trail up the talus just left of the rock.

Be EXTREMELY careful accessing the anchors above these climbs if you toprope here. Lethal accidents have occurred too often here.

L->R:

A. Jam It, 8, 1p, gear or TR.
AB. Jam It (Variation) , 5, 1p, 100', gear.
B. Ho Hum, 4, 1p, 100', gear or TR.
C. Idle Hands, 6, 1p, gear or TR.
D. Mons, 5, 1p, gear or TR.
E. Fistula, 3, 1p, 30', gear or TR.

To the right on the block:

F. Qs, 9+, 1p, 65', bolts.
G. Jazz On The Mezzanine, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
H. Hell In A Bucket, 12+, gear or TR.
I. Suite 11, 11, 1p, 60', bolts & gear or TR.
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

About 8.8 miles up the canyon, 200 yards past Practice Rock, there is a large turn out on the left side of the road at the end of a sweeping right hand turn. The rock is directly across the road from the pullout.

10 Total Climbs

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Location: The Boulderado Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Boulderado

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jam It (Variation)
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idle Hands
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Qs
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jam It (Variation) 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Idle Hands 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Qs 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in The Boulderado »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
Sean Lynn
Golden, CO
Sean Lynn   Golden, CO
I was at Boulderado 5/30/2017 and explored quite a bit after the rockfall and scaling earlier this year. I would recommend being very careful on this cliff for quite a while. There is quite a bit of debris at the base where belays take place and the area where Ho Hum existed is highly unstable.

I've added a picture showing quite a bit of loose rock still remaining above where you walk through and belay from. There are detached flakes (about where the tree used to be), large and unstable loose rocks (to the right of the Jam It roof).

If you're in this area and decide to climb Jam It, be careful of overhead hazards. If you climb Idle Hands or routes to the right be aware that the unstable rock, should it give way, will likely come down near your belay station. It's also highly likely if you knock rock off the cliff face it ends in the road below. May 31, 2017
Jason Watts
Boulder,CO
Jason Watts   Boulder,CO
Tie in to something if you are going to place top rope anchors on this cliff. It only took one slip to cause a death on 9-2-12 while trying to set a rope. Sep 4, 2012
Adamatrix
Boulder, CO
Adamatrix   Boulder, CO
Left a rope on top of the Boulderado Wall under the large pine tree. Anybody pick it up Tuesday, July 12, 2011? Any info, please email adamatrix1@gmail. Jul 18, 2011
Anybody find a pair of Katanas there 9/8/09? Sep 9, 2009
The missing ring hanger at the top of Idle Hands was replaced with a new quick link set up as of 8/6/07. I also checked the other three anchors for Jam It, Ho Hum and Mons. Everything is tightened down and set with red Locktite...should hold up for a while. Aug 6, 2007
Mike Pharris
Longmont, CO
Mike Pharris   Longmont, CO
One of the bolts at the top of "Idle Hands" is missing a hanger as of July 2, 2007. Still plenty of opportunity for anchors with the boulders and trees, but if you were planning on using the new double bolts - you can't. Jul 3, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
In mid-March 2007, Richard Rossiter placed four new toprope anchors at the Boulderado, atop Jam It, Ho Hum, Idle Hands, and Mons. The Spot bouldering gym paid for the hardware and asked Richard to install the bolts and rings for the benefit of all users. See .

Richard, who has the first known ascents of these routes, has been thinking about installing anchors here for several years; see .

Please don't toprope directly through the anchor rings; use your own gear instead. And be extremely careful if you are at the top of this cliff and are not anchored in. Personally, I prefer to lead these routes to set toprope anchors. Mar 29, 2007
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
Great area and great for beginners but IGNORE the directions used in the Knapp toproping book! The mileages are completely wrong and the map is largely useless. It took us two hours to find the place. (The route beta in the book is okay AFAIK.)

Boulderado is located about a mile up the road from Boulder Falls at a right-hand bend with a ten-car parking area on the left side. The climbing starts from a sloping ledge 40 feet above the road and the rock is obvious. If you hike more than 50', you've gone too far. The walkup for toproping is on the left. Oct 20, 2003
A note on the history of the Boulderado. Up to 1987, no climbs had been described or published for this now popular formation. During the fall of 1987 when I was collecting data for Boulder Climbs North (published by Chockstone Press), I did solo all the routes shown in your photo. I also soloed the nice face left of Idle Hands. I do not know if any of these routes had been climbed previously. It really doesn't matter. I had never seen a soul on this rock, other than myself, until BCN came out the next spring. From that time on, it has been rather well frequented. I have thought more than once about placing some good bolt anchors at the top of each route, but have never gotten around to it. One reason is that for toproping, such anchors would be a little more dangerous to thread than the usual long slings from boulders and trees used until now. Dec 29, 2002
Definitely a summer crag. Went here in February and froze my ass off! No sun exposure in fall or winter. Cool place, altogether. Qs is an awesome route, even though I froze trying to climb it. May 18, 2002
Another great area for taking groups, especially beginners. Plenty of parking and easy approach. Need to be careful as the bottom has some exposure right above the road (it is possible to fall), same applies to setting up top rope anchors, as there is lots of loose footing. Bring long slings or static ropes to set up anchors. Jul 25, 2001

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