East Face/Achean Pronouncement
Avg: 2.5 from 19 votes
Routes in Achean Pronouncement
|Dangling Fury S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Dark Obsession T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|East Face/Achean Pronouncement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Electric Fountain Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Lingum Direct T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X|
|Northeast Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Third Eye T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Yoni T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 6 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,217 total, 11/month|
|Shared By:||George Bell on Oct 19, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionAs you walk up Skunk Canyon, the Achean Pronouncement is the first ridge of rock on the left side rising from the stream. At certain points on the approach you can see the second pitch on the route, a wide crack up a slab that ends at a tree. As you reach the base of Satan's Slab, hike up a gully to the left to the base of the route. The route begins just right of a long overhang which extends across the east face (only a few feet above it's base), and left of a huge juniper bush hanging down the rock. The starting point is about 150' up from the stream and 60' above the low point of the rock.
P1: Angle up and right across a slab (5.7), aiming for two large trees 50' up. From these trees you will see a nice slab split by a 2-6" crack. Belay at one of the two trees (or it is possible to combine the first 3 pitches in 2 by going to a ledge 100' higher).
P2: Climb the crack to the next big tree. This is a long pitch and a few feet of simulclimbing is required with a 50m rope. WATCH OUT FOR A PATCH OF POISON IVY ABOUT 40' UP THIS CRACK. This crack is mostly 3-4" and accepts smaller pro at rare intervals, but it is quite easy (5.4). The last 20' below the belay, the crack is 5-6", but you can climb the face right of the crack (no pro, though).
P3: Continue 90' up the wide crack in the slab to a spectacular fixed belay on the crest of the ridge with a piton and cable loop.
P4: Step left onto the east face, and climb back up to the crest. Follow the knife-like crest south to some fixed slings and belay (120'). There is almost no pro on this pitch, but it is only about 5.2.
P5: Fourth class pitch south up the crest to the NW corner of the summit block (165').
P6: Cross some slabs under the overhanging east face of the summit block. Angle up and left, and climb the south face of the summit block (5.7). There is not much pro on this pitch either (fortunately, there is pro before the 5.7 moves). Route finding skills needed on this pitch to find the easiest way.
Rap 60' south from the summit to hiking territory.