Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,557 total · 7/month
Shared By: George Bell on Sep 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details

Description

This is a fun climb but the descent is unpleasant with lots of poison ivy (but several options exist).

Queen Anne's Head is a distinct piece of rock all the way down its East Face, the bottom of which is marked by a large overhang. On the approach, walk up left of this overhang, until you are at the base of a large left facing dihedral and only a few feet left of the giant overhang itself. Do not climb up the 1911 Gully to far when you approach, because if you reach the base of the 1911 Gully route you will be too high and north. It is useful to use a 60m rope for this climb.

P1: Climb the dihedral (really a subsidiary crack left of the main corner). You can also climb out left on the face, but there is no pro. Just where the dihedral itself turns 5.4, you can get some pro in. Belay anywhere you can get gear. P2: Continue on up easy rock to a big ledge where you can move right (east) onto the main east face of the rock. There are two ancient pitons here. You can combine P1 & P2 with a 60m rope with a little bit of simulclimbing.

P3: Scramble east onto the main face, descend a little, and head up the east face toward the left side of a small overhang. After placing a piece under the overhang, you can go up, or immediately traverse right (north) above the overhang. Reach a crack and belay where you can find a good anchor. P4: A short easy pitch leads straight up to the top. P3 & P4 combined are about 210 feet.

Rap north 100' from some slings into a sloping jungle of ferns and poisin ivy (the 1911 Gully). Walk down this (worst part of the climb), passing several trees. You can rap from the two lowest trees, we just rapped from the lowest tree (only 40').

The end of the top rap is very close to the base of the sport route "Blazing Biners". If you have the time, it's probably better to climb this route, and then continue to the summit of the 3rd, or traverse north to the base of the regular route.

Protection

Light rack to #3 Camalot.

Photos