Type: Trad, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Ferguson, Wunsch, Bragg, 1974
Page Views: 16,669 total · 60/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route is probably the best route in the popular Pony Express Area of the West Ridge of Eldo. It may be one of the best shorter routes in Eldo.

P1) 5.9, 80'. Climb the left most of the cracks in a large inset, starting just below a pine tree and ending at a pine at the base of a right-facing dihedral. Most of the gear is thin-to-fat finger sized.

P2) 5.11, 55'. From there, climb up the dihedral until it gets bare, then launch up and left though a series strenuous thin moves (11b/c) to get to the arete on the left, and up to a jug on the face and then back right to the corner (awkward). The gear is pretty reasonable and frequently fixed (small stoppers). There is one hard move (11a, balancy) remaining once you are back to the corner. What will be the crux for you depends upon your individual strengths and weaknesses. Going directly up the corner the whole way is thin stemming (5.11d) and is not as well protected.

To descend, rap to the rings above Iron Horse and then rap again to the ground.

Protection Suggest change

The protection is reasonable at all times, but not necessarily great. The crux pro is several small nuts in a row, so take some small gear. There is most frequently fixed protection at the crux, but it can be transient and would best be backed up.